Dan's Crapi project.

[Danthecapriman]

So the doors next.

First was clean them out inside. Loads of cobwebs and bodyshop dust in there so I’ve hoovered it all out.
Once clean I stuck a shit load of the sound deadening sheets inside the doors, loads of space on these doors so nice and easy! The difference with these fitted is incredible. The doors feel really ‘weighty’ now, like a heavy solid feeling! And the shut is excellent now they don’t feel so light and tinny. I’ve fitted many times more than what Ford ever did and it shows!
One issue I did find was the drivers door had started catching the wing when opening. It must have dropped somehow but on looking for why I noticed that one of the bottom hinge nuts was actually missing and the other two were loose! Should have noticed that before now really easy fix though, got an assistant to hold the door up in the right place then tightened all the nuts up properly. Door now not catching!

Next was the messy job of cavity waxing the doors. Did this on a hot sunny day so the wax was thin and soaked in well. I’ve covered everything inside paying extra attention to the folded seams between the door skin and frame.

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While that dried I removed the passenger door top window frame section.one of the securing bolts had snapped off (ally frame, steel bolt!) so with that off the car I filed down the snapped bolt end, centre punched and drilled it out, then tapped a new thread into the frame for the new bolt. Impossible while still on the car as it’s the front bolt next to the A post. While it was out I noticed the rubber and felt glass channel seal was far from perfect (split & rotten!) so pulled that out and fitted a new replacement which I’d had sat in my shed for many years! Refitting was a pig because of all the wax in the door!

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[Danthecapriman]

Then refitting the exterior handles complete with new seals, all lock/opening etc rods, interior handles etc etc. Only issue was the passenger door lock mechanism seized up when testing it afterwards. It freed off fine after lashings of penetrating oil and constant working the mechanism to free it off. Loads of old mank and grease came out of it so I think it was just that sticking it all up.

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Next job to do before refitting the damp membrane and door cards is to fit the door mirrors and courtesy light pin switches… which involves drilling holes in new paintwork! Hopefully it’ll go well!

[Hooli]

It is looking lovely.

[Danthecapriman]

It is looking lovely.

Ta! It’s taking bloody ages to get finished though!

[Scruffy Bodger]

It is looking lovely.

Ta! It’s taking bloody ages to get finished though!

It really is. That colour looks fantastic in the photos.

[Danthecapriman]

It is looking lovely.

Ta! It’s taking bloody ages to get finished though!

It really is. That colour looks fantastic in the photos.

The colour is something I think I definitely picked right. It’s a gorgeous colour, especially in the sunlight. No regrets whatsoever on that score. It goes really well with the black interior and the chrome bits.

Btw, I can confirm the black interior. Not good when wearing shorts after it’s been in the sun all day! Fuck me does it get hot!

[LynehamHerc]

What cavity wax are you using Dan?

[Danthecapriman]

What cavity wax are you using Dan?

For the underside - floors, chassis legs, wheel arches etc I use Dynax UB underbody wax. Usually in the clear wax variant as it shows body colour through.

For the cavitys, inside panels, box sections etc - Dynax S50. It’s all brown but inside things you never see it anyway. It’s very thin and creeps well so it soaks into gaps and seams. Doing it on a hot day thins it even more!

All made by BiltHamber https://bilthamber.com/
I don’t have any connections to them, just used their products for ages and rate them!

[christine]

And can you buy that non setting rubbery stuff for sticking the membrane ?

[Danthecapriman]

And can you buy that non setting rubbery stuff for sticking the membrane ?

I know the stuff you mean, I’ve got no idea wtf that stuff is called though. I’ve been using black PU adhesive in tubes for this though. It’s strong and will stick to both polythene sheet and the car and will peel off if needed but it’s not the stuff your thinking of.if you peel the PU adhesive it needs replacement afterwards aswell as the polythene sheet I’d expect!