Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)

[Eddie Honda]

1987 Land Rover 110 post fail eyeball

Had a chance to eyeball the LR and compare to the fail sheet.

What's this I see? I can read that. This tester needs GEPPS!

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Wiped a bit of dirt off

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Fucking clear as day. I'm going to write a note on the chassis leg in Tippex pen before it goes back in inferring the tester is a blind cunt.

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Damaged insulation? My arse it is! I followed up from the 12N socket and there is bugger all perished. Standard Land Rover that. Will obtain cover plate and box it back in so the cunt can't see it.

The other side still has the factory cover.

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Fair enough this one. Shit Part boot lasted six months. That was a new joint last August.

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The door opens and closes perfectly from both the inside and outside. What the fuck is this wanker on? I will get hold of those square lokut inserts to hold the screws for the original plastic button arrangement and find a link rod between the plastic button and the lock along with a stay clip.

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These bottom shock mounts passed ok last time.

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I think the issue is with slop, because whoever put them on didn't put the inner washers (no. 5 below) either side of the mounting hole on the axle resulting in excessive movement.

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So apart from the shock washers and TRE boot, a load of made-up shit. I'm half minded to attend the retest so I can have one of my Cloughie chats about the tester's opinions. (“We talk about it for 20 minutes and then we decide I was right”)

[Hooli]

Good to know your MOTs are as fucking useless as ours even though your testers can't make a profit from dodgy fails.

[Eddie Honda]

Good to know your MOTs are as fucking useless as ours even though your testers can't make a profit from dodgy fails.

The NCT one can't. I think the CVRT commercial ones can,

A car NCT is €55, a light commercial test like this Land Rover is €116.16 including the VAT.

Also during much eye-rolling chat with Joe, the tester cunt hadn't even heard of the non-commercial use declaration and two-yearly testing of such vehicles between 30 and 40 years old saying it was still annual for those.

[Eddie Honda]

ST1100

Had the front wheel off for the second time yesterday just before going to work.

When I bought this over 3 months ago, the speedo wasn't working. Having checked the cable which was fine, attention was eventually paid to the wheelbox. Yup, no turning going on there. As assumed, bending the tabs back out on the drive ring to actually engage with the plastic drive gear has sorted everything out and I now have a working speedometer.

I am able to confirm that my guestimate speeds from day one of the eyeballometer have been pretty accurate.

Next up I'll have a poke around the cooling system, front callipers (bit sticky, shite feel), and fork seals (right hand side is misting oil over the leg)

[Hooli]

From memory only the RH fork does any forking, the LH one is just anti-dive hence the different calliper bracket. Meaning they take different amounts of oil per side. I don't recall anything unusual about the seal replacement process though.

[Hooli]

I might have a PDF of the factory manual for this somewhere, I think I recall reading it before I did a few jobs. Want me to try & dig it out for you?

[Eddie Honda]

I might have a PDF of the factory manual for this somewhere, I think I recall reading it before I did a few jobs. Want me to try & dig it out for you?

I think I may have downloaded it somewhere on this phone, but thanks for the offer. I'll get back to you if I can't find it.

[Hooli]

It was bugging me so I had a look, can't find the file but...

https://st1100-1300.wmco.org/st1100/Hon ... manual.pdf

[Eddie Honda]

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I've got this one on the moby

[Eddie Honda]

1987 Land Rover 110 repairs and retest

Thought I'd better highlight the VIN stamping on the chassis leg that was there all along.

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I got hold of the silly square lokut inserts for the screws that hold the inside lock lifter. Also had to get the clip and connecting rod that went walkabout at some point. The parts diagram shows it in the bottom hole, but the rod isn't that long. Had to drill the top hole a bawhair larger to take the clip. Couldn't find my cordless drill so had to fanny around getting the extension reel out and using the big Bosch.

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Got the aluminium cover plate for this side, but it doesn't extend to the floor, it stops about 20mm short of the floor. Supposedly the right part. Left Joe with a piece of wood to bridge the gap and keep the tester's beady eyes from the wiring.

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Fitted new washers either side of the axle mounts on the rear shocks. There was one above, but none below. Bushes look different too. Axle holes had worn a bit oval. Could fit new bushes either side and get started on the thread, so have a new one top side and old one bottom side.

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Awful previous owner chocolate block wiring I'll deal with at a later date. There's a good bit of wob at the bottom of this wing. The adjuster at 3 o'clock is one robbed off the Regal as was missing (nearside / not the side that failed).

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Had to move Tommy's Jaaag first. Hasn't been started since last August or something. Amazing no ABS light on!





This was to get to the wall at the back of the barn to twiddle the headlight adjustment.


Had no issues setting the driver's side at 10m. Passenger side was way left with fuck all adjustment left. The previous owner installed these lights buckets wrong and the adjusters are in the wrong place, so had to whip off the surrounds. I think the wing has been dinged as adjustment was used up (and probably why the adjuster screw went AWOL). Found a small piece of 3mm thick bar that was about 3" x 1" and wedged it behind the bowl at 4 o'clock to move the bowl to the right and up a bit. Got it adjusted fine after that bodge.

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I hadn't heard anything from Joe, but checked the RSA site yesterday and today.

They even have correctly issued a two-year cert. Only one more to go before it's exempt.

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