The Dark Wob

brandersnatch wrote:Let us know how you get on with it.

First impressions are very good, one thing I miss is the speed camera and plod warnings from Waze via the Bluetooth in my helmet but as a point to point tool it seems excellent to date.

My second reason was you can flick it into cycle mode.

Battery life is great and they say 10hrs backlit and 30hrs not.

On the downside both forkseals died on the way back so I’ll be into a job I have never tried to do on a bike before. I am considering pooping some gaiters over when I do them as I think it sitting for a year has done them no good at all.

The hardest thing doing forkseals is getting the bolt in the bottom of the fork undone.

You can cheat by winding a self tapper into each side of the old seal and pulling them out, but it's worth stripping them to flush the forks out unless you know the oil is quite new.

I like the minimalism of it, no unnecessary distractions.

I’ve done fork seals years ago. Not too difficult. Like all of these jobs take your time, read the manual or watch YouTube and it’ll be done in a jiffy.

Oh yeah, do the oil by the air gap not quantity. It's more accurate as you never get every last drop out.

Thanks that’s some useful info I’ll just need to find a manual for it next.

My nephew has just sold his GSX-R 1000 and replaced it with a BMW S1000RR. He has some bits for the GSX-R, a 2015 model I think.

Pair of wheels (so always had a second of tyres to go straight on) in as new condition, and an Austin Racing endcan and pipes.

He is in Essex.

Hooli wrote: ↑Wed Nov 24, 2021 8:46 pm The hardest thing doing forkseals is getting the bolt in the bottom of the fork undone.

Piece of piss with an impact gun with a long 8mm allen bit, first time every time, even an impact driver like a joiners makita will shift them easily enough with one of these adapters

Aye as long as you have an impact gun.

Just use a manual impact driver.

I've never tried that, should work though shouldn't it?