Sics Consolidated Faded Moderns Thread - 2006 Golf Mk5 GTI & 2004 BMW Z4 2.2

[angrydicky]

I can't remember to be honest. Possibly two.

[SiC]

Both my wife and myself have noticed the rear brakes scrape when they're warm. I know it's perfectly fine but it upsets Mrs SiC. Basically the rear disc is warped and when hot it expands enough to just catch the pad. The discs and pads are barely worn so very likely a manufacturing defect on cheap parts.

Anyway I needed a fix without replacing unnecessarily parts that aren't worn.

The root cause is basically this.

Turning up the radio louder doesn't really work very well at the moment.
 
I still need to pick up the bits from dan95x but just not had the time recently. I saw one going on eBay cheap that came with a radio code. These radios pair with the car and only need the code once. But if you move cars you need the code again. I threw in a last minute bid that was cheaper than buying a code and won. 

I also dug out my Parrot Bluetooth adapter. Ironically I think this was last in a Golf mk5 that Mrs SiC owned nearly 10yrs ago now as the Quadlock cable was still attached to it. Handy!

 
This looks like a lot to remove but it's only a handful of torx screws and pulling plastic trim


These cars don't have a ignition switch live feed on the connectors, so you need to wire one in for the Parrot. I'd usually go to the effort of adding it in properly on the fusebox. However as this car is basically one step away from scrap fodder, I went all bodgy.


Yes that is an evil scotchlock on the cigarette lighter plug feed. Not even a genuine 3M one. Hateful things. But it'll work. Rarrrr

I put the little display here and attached the microphone onto the A-pillar internal trim. Bluetooth-ing like the 00s.

 
Having a radio here rather than a gaping hole really improves the cabin.


This is actually for a Golf Mk6 (the one after) and looks much smarter than the standard original (RCD300) that this car would have had. At this age car you do need an updated CAN control module for it to power down correctly and not drain the car battery. This looks like to have it and likely someone has changed it. I suspect a previous owner had a fancy aftermarket unit with a switched CAN interface box that needed the updated module. They can be had for under a tenner now but at least it saved me the arse of having to fit it and then code it in. 
 
Also bought a cheap new stalk to get cruise. The existing indicator stalk was getting a bit ropey anyway and this Meyle unit was only £20 after eBay discounts.

Fitting involves removing the airbag, steering wheel, cowling, steering wheel control module, clock spring and steering angle sensor. Sounds a lot but it's a piece of cake.

I won't explain how to do it as there are a bazillion guides around on how to do it. 





Interesting to note that there is no yellow warning sticker on the control module at the bottom. I think someone may have been in here before.


The key things in this job are to ensure that you put the wheel back in the right place. There is a dot and line to ensure it is in the right place. Interestingly the dot and line didn't line up when I removed the wheel - again suggesting someone has been in here before. Or the factory misaligned it. 


It's now like this. Scantool says the wheel is at 0 degrees when in the middle. Which suggests this is definitely correct. However the wheel is slightly off now when in a straight line, so it's going to need a wheel alignment job. 

 
Other things of note is that you need the right steering control module and matching slip ring for this to work. There is a page on RossTech website (company who makes VCDS/VAG-COM) saying which work. Thankfully mine does. I did test it before I bought the stalk and pulled it all apart. Again these control modules can be had cheap on eBay and just need coding in. Simple job if you have VCDS. 


 
Also the connector to the steering control module needs a wire at pin 13. This is the fourth pin across from the bottom left - the yellow and black wire. I believe all Golf Mk5 from 2006 have this. If it doesn't then you need to buy a wire with connectors on the end and fit it. I had to do that on the TT. Not hard but a pia job as it's tight up behind the dash to get the wire up. 

 
Once it was all back together and the steering wheel torqued up (I went 50nm), I coded it in with VCDS. Now I have that magic green indicator light on the dash to say all is good. 

Test drive showed it works great. And I badly need a wheel alignment! (Tbh it needed one anyway)
 
Next up will be to replace that saggy headlining. Struggling to find the right colour as it's not very standard creme/black/grey/etc. Closest I can find that isn't really expensive is Ivory. Not too bothered if it's a perfect match as it's on the ceiling and this is a scrap fodder car anyway. At £10 per metre (either 2 or 3 metres - I haven't decided), it's pretty cheap. Not sure how hard a job it'll be but tbh I can't make it any worse than it is!
 
Oh and I'm pretending I haven't heard that the chain is having a brief rattle on startup. Given the chain timing readings are saying it's out of spec, that might be a job I'll have to do sometime. It doesn't rattle when running so for now I'll just ignore it. Will be about £200 for all the bits (including replacement seals) for the chain. Then another £100 for the cambelt+water pump that also needs doing. 

Debating whether it's even worth doing given it's not exactly the best of examples? That said the engine is in a pretty fit state apart from the chain and the miles on the clock. 

[SiC]

Went for an alignment check at lunchtime.


Way out. 

However it wasn't adjusted as they reckoned the tie rods are seized solid and likewise the rear arm bolts are too. TBF the rear arm bolts are steel bolt into aluminium bushing so that's completely fair. 

Question is what do I do? They did quote for them to do but as this is a project car and I want to learn (I've never done tie-rods), I'll DIY.

Front:
 a. Leave the front as is and just live with wonky steering wheel.
 b. Replace just the front outer tie rods but might be a fight. (£25 for both Febi)
 c. Replace the complete inner and outer tie rods on both sides (£50 for Febi on both sides with boots)

Rear:
 a. Leave as is
 b. Replace just the bolt and maybe the bush. I have a press but the arms are crusty. (£25 in bolts)
 c. Replace the complete rear arms and bolts on both sides (£80 for both arms+bolts as NAPA)
 d. While the arms are off, replace the springs (£40 for pair as NAPA)
 e. Hell, replace the dampers while there too (£40 for pair as NAPA)

Going all the most above I'm looking at £202 in parts. I also need a inner tie-rod tool too and possibly a tie-rod splitter (no idea where mine is). 

I probably need to check the condition of the springs+dampers to see if they've been done or if OEM and likely original.

Problem is where do you stop? After all it's a 200k welded up Golf mk5 with a slight chain rattle. 

[Eddie Honda]

Leave it. If you want to get the numbers right, wack it with a big hammer.

[SiC]

This isn't a Robin Reliant.

Wheel is about 10-15 degrees to the left when driving straight on. I can't stand driving cars that are out of alignment, especially ones that are designed for driving fun.

[xtriple]

Do the front as a bare minimum. I'm with you; cannot stand a wheel off-centre, it drives me nuts.

[SiC]

The rear toe misalignment probably could cause the wheel to still be out too?

Ideal world would be to just loosen that bolt up with heat. However I suspect that'll knacker the bush. While the bush on its own is cheap, there is a good chance the bolt might snap in it too.

Kind of a cascading job where replacing the bolt turns into cutting the bolt & arm off then replacing the lot anyway.

[cuntbuster]

You’re going to have £3k in this heap before you know it.

[AutoshiteBoy]

Is it not wise to start spraying penetrating oil into the suspension bolts now and keep doing it until you are ready to fettle it? I've found that can pay dividends for when you come to do it properly.

[SiC]

The rear suspension (steel) bolt I think is going to be seized solid in the aluminium bush sleeve. So almost certainly have to cut the whole thing out.