Sics Consolidated Faded Moderns Thread - 2006 Golf Mk5 GTI & 2004 BMW Z4 2.2

[SiC]

Still waiting on the dipstick. Last owner said he'd drop it around but not yet. Ordered a genuine one on Monday and posted today. Hopefully arriving tomorrow.

Moved it onto the drive earlier and still rattling/tapping when cold. They do have hydraulic lifters, so really hoping that a change will sort it. Will fit the new chain tensioner while I'm at it.

[AutoshiteBoy]

Rover spent quite a while re-engineering the Tritec unit. I don't mind them, but they do like a drop of oil. But then, I'm a Neon fan. The K-series was never on the cards as BMW chose the Tritech unit on cost and because they had wind of Mercedes and Chrysler and wanted an ore to stick in. The first time I drove a prototype Rover 75, all the engineer talked about was the MINI Supercharged they had in the workshop at the same time.

[paulplom]

They do a lifter treatment. It worked on an ex cid s70 t5 I had. It was ticking like fuck but it all went quiet after about 100 miles.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372479911331

[AMCrebel]

Rover spent quite a while re-engineering the Tritec unit. I don't mind them, but they do like a drop of oil. But then, I'm a Neon fan. The K-series was never on the cards as BMW chose the Tritech unit on cost and because they had wind of Mercedes and Chrysler and wanted an ore to stick in. The first time I drove a prototype Rover 75, all the engineer talked about was the MINI Supercharged they had in the workshop at the same time.

I am a fan of the Neon and PT Cruiser

[Hooli]

Ahh so you're the one!

[SiC]

Old dipstick. Snapped by someone who looked around the car.


Dipstick arrived in the biggest box ever


Ah, that possibly explains the tappy engine. This side is showing, but the rest of it isn't. So either just at the bottom or off the bottom and picking up residue down the tube. Either way it needs sorting and I'll do a change. Hopefully no damage has been done. New tensioner will be going in too.

[PhilA]

Yeah, that yellow bit gonna be bouncing around in there, tap tap tap

[SiC]

The old broken one isn't stuck in there thankfully. Chap had it when I first went round. Day I bought it, it was on the floor when I arrived and he snapped up again to put in the bin.

[christine]

No that was another one, to make you think it wasn't still in there

[SiC]

Jacked up


Oily oily mess


Gaiter split.


Other side looks new


The side the gaiter is split on has a tear in the top mount rubber


I'll book it in sometime and get both sorted before they get worse. Especially the gaiter as I rather not have to get a new driveshaft.


Tried undoing the sump plug but truly rounded off. Used one of my rounded fastener undoing things but just wasn't budging. I even (recklessly) tried using my BFO impact gun on it but didn't budge.


Decided that I was risking a bit too much trying to get that undone, so used my sucking thing. Extracted just over 2 litres. There should be like 4.5l or so in there, so really low. Bet the last owner never bothered to check oil level between services.


Removed the wheel


Removed arch liner



This gives visible access to the chain tensioner nut that holds it in




19mm socket on a wobble extension got in there fine. Cracked it off.
You can also see the oil filter housing, will come to that in a moment. Daft place to have it and bit of an arse to get to. Had worse though.



Old tensioner. No idea if this is worn or not and what to look for. Didn't look too bad to me?


Now oil filter. Appeared to be 36mm but I didn't have an appropriate socket. Found the nearest in imperial but in 1" drive. No chance this would fit down there.

My 36mm spanner that I bought to so the E28 Viscous Fan coupling was a perfect fit. No exactly the highest quality spanner for the job but it worked. Thankfully the housing wasn't gorilla tight, so no damage done. To be honest the spanner is of soft enough (cheap) metal that it probably would wear before the housing.


Filled up with oil. Just over 4.5l went in.


Removed fuel pump relay and turned engine over to get oil around. Except the battery is pretty knackered and it struggled. After about 5s of churning the oil light was still on.


Gathered it wasn't spinning over fast enough and probably doing more harm than good. So went for broke, put the relay back in and started it.

Oil light went out pretty quickly. Still tappy though.

Had a listen around with the stethoscope and it sounded like it was coming from the top end. Loudest on the right hand side by the MAP sensor and around what looks like the thermostat housing.

Coolant tank next.


Had to remove the coil pack connector and leads 3 + 4 to get enough clearance. To be honest, it probably would have been better to remove the coil pack entirely. But it just about came out as is.


You can see the coolant remains on the heat shield. Old tank had a BMW parts sticker on it, so presumably it's been replaced before.


New tank in and topped up with fresh red anti-freeze. Probably could do with a coolant change but I need to service the supercharger at some point. If I'm doing that, the water pump (driven off the end of the supercharger) will be removed. So a good chance to drain down then.


Flushed the area down with water, to wash away any possibility of antifreeze on the floor or dripping in the car. Don't want to make any animals around sick.

Restarted the engine. Ran like a bag of shit. Crap what did I do?

Checked the area for water getting out or where I flushed it on the coil pack. Then noticed leads 3 and 4 in back to front. FFS.

Swapped them round and started back up again. Thankfully ran fine and no the worse for it.

Let it get up to temperature. Checking the dash, I noticed the Engine Light on. What now...


Ok this was my fault from earlier. Not sure why it decided to light up the engine light once it got warmed up, rather than just after the restart. Cleared it and it went away.


Engine is still a bit tappy but it's quieten off a lot as it's warmed up. Hopefully just old oil in the lifters that is getting flushed out as it warms up.

Reset both the oil service interval and inspection time. Most guides only show how to do the oil service not the inspection time. The inspection time is the same as the oil service but you just press the trip reset once more when you get 51A up.




Had a quick check of the battery to see a date code. Couldn't find one but it's Mini branded. I suspect this might be very old. Surely can't be original? Would explain why it isn't the quickest starting engine.
OBD reports 12.1v just after shutting the engine off. That's far too low really and I think its nearly had it.


Anyone know the size of the battery these take? Again, no markings on the battery to indicate size, only capacities.