The Dark Wob

My missus lived on the road of the former Citroen showroom which he's now using. Newbridge Road? I'm convinced that was a Rover dealer before Citroen.

Not had much time to work on this.

Did strip off the underseal


Krust


Then rattle can primer and then black with poundland paint.


Will put some underseal on once back in the car.

Also pulled the sender


Cleaned the inside by spraying copious amounts of contact cleaner (IPA) and working the contact wipers back + forth. Resistance a lot more progressive now and doesn't jump around as it did before. Hopefully will make the gauge a tad more reliable.

Today was another rare day that I had a bit of free time to work on cars. Except I slept to nearly mid day...

Anyhow the tank is painted.


Then set onto changing the rear nearside wheel bearing and damaged stud. This entails removing the hub from the back axle.

Stud thread was damaged and busted the wheel nuts. I probably could have recut the thread but a new stud is cheap and the bearing was grounchy anyway.

Drum back off. Half shaft out.



I didn't have a socket big enough to undo this nut. However someone else previously has removed it with a chisel. So I felt less guilty doing that myself. I marked up too where it was currently set at, so I knew how far to retighten.



Next I had to pull off the hub. There is a special service tool that fits in the middle that your puller can press against. Squire had one made but I don't have a lathe to make one and I'm a tight fisted git if I can do it for free. So instead I decided that I'd use a socket instead. Two old sockets are used here, one to press against the axle and the other for the puller centre to press against.


Worked a treat. Decent impact is really handy here.
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I did try with my little Milwaukee stubby but it just didn't have the strength. The bigger impact actually is easier in cases like this. As each impact bang is much higher, you can run it much slower and more controlled.


Hub off


No damage to the axle insides.


I bought this press off red5 a while ago and, despite something infrequently used, it's incredibly useful for things like this. Out comes the bearing.


I used an old brake drum to support the hub while pressing out the stud. It let go with a satisfying but also unnerving crack.


Removed the old seal. This left behind a metal insert.


I don't think this is needed on the new seal so I removed it. You can see the old seal (right) is smaller than the new (left).


Seal in


New bearing pushed in carefully.


Then tapped the hub back on with the shaft lightly lubed with oil. A mix of big sockets is incredibly handy here.


Nut back on with a new tab washer bent over.


Went slightly further than it was originally. I don't think this is supposed to be mega tight anyway?


Drum back on


Then wheel back on. I've put on one of the white Wellers that also came with the car. I think they look quite good! The Dunlop Remoulds will definitely need replacing though.


I also changed the other side.


Now the diff oil needed replacing. This was very low, most likely from the slight leak it's had for years.



Then dropped the back end to allow the remainder to drain.


As I had the fuel tank out, it makes refilling far easier.


Took a full 1 litre bottle of oil to pretty much fill to the top. Close enough that there isn't any point to open another bottle and make it overflow out.


Back end just needs the tank back in, arch back on and bumper iron reattaching. All of which can be done with the car on the ground.

Now I need to crack on with the front. Calipers/pads freeing up, flexis replacing, master replacing and remote reservoir fitting. Then bleeding all around the car and hoping I can get pressure!


Wheel off. Does anyone know if these are actually Marina brakes as I've been assuming?


Tie rod boot is knackered. No play though, so I think I'll just try getting a new boot.


Flexis I think are date coded 1986?


I also painted the boot with some acrylic Navy Blue paint that I hoped would be sort of the right colour. Turned out absolutely awful coverage. Might just rough it all up and spray it black instead!
Or stick on some carpet and pretty up the boot.

Those calipers look like mine which are Marina ones.

Set to work on the front end this evening.

First off was replacing the completely knackered TRE boot


First time I've used this tool. Need to get a few different types really. I think I picked it up at FoD when someone bought a big box of old tools they were giving away.


Also removed the Flexi




Then the caliper


Pads had rusted into the caliper


Gave the discs a quick whizz over with the wire wheel to remove surface rust.


More problematic on the caliper are the pistons completely seized in. I was hoping to replace the seals and pistons myself but now I'll either have to rebuild these or find a replacement pair.

Presumably the brand new Marina calipers are a straight swap? Also presumably this is definitely a marina caliper. Not sure how you tell?


Removed the caliper on the other side and that was seized too. TRE boot was in good condition though, so I didn't replace that.

Greased up. The G.Coupler attachment is definitely a massive improvement over the original included one on the grease gun.


Finally removed the hydraulic fittings from the master cylinder before calling it a night.

mercrocker wrote: ↑Mon Oct 25, 2021 5:34 pm Those calipers look like mine which are Marina ones.


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Just noticed that you have a Flexi going to hard lines on both sides? My setup just has a Flexi going straight to the caliper.
Presumably my setup is wrong and likely put strain on the pipe?

Shove an airline in the hose attachment on the callipers, the pistons will probably move then.

I did it once with a seized calliper on a XR4i, the piston cleared a brand new unregistered Volvo in the workshop before hitting the ceiling

I hit it with the air line at full pressure and also a pry bar. Both didn't make it move at all.

Proper stuck in there.

It's fucked then.