1966 Plymouth Fury 3

[dean36014]

Those particular ones are only 4" and have the smaller centre hole to fit an old Makita grinder I have. Just need to be careful of heat build up on the panel.

[PhilA]

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Yesterday evening was raining and nasty (it still is, with red flood warnings) so I decided to do something on the car that might be productive, instead of destructive.
So, I pulled the clock out of the dash to see if it even wanted to still work.
Nope. Totally dead.

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So, apart it came. Surprisingly clean inside, actually.

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Now there's your problem. The escapement wheel was bent, as was one of the release pallets. I bent those straight again and lubricated the movement. It then began to tick. First time in many years.

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The electrical side of it still didn't want to work, so I tested the continuity. Open circuit, so I pulled the solenoid off. Crispy! This winds the mainspring periodically, which is how I could get the clock running- just push the mechanism round and the clock starts.

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I unwound and measured the wire. 212 turns of 28 AWG wire. I have ordered a spool of that, hopefully I can rewind and make the magnet work again which will get the clock running properly.

Phil

[mercrocker]

Another top Phil resto thread - dealing with the little stuff first, I like it!

[LynehamHerc]

I admire your patience Phil, counting 212 turns.

I'd said fuck it after about 20 and guessed the total. Probably why I'm shit at attempting to restore cars.

[PhilA]

I admire your patience Phil, counting 212 turns.

I'd said fuck it after about 20 and guessed the total. Probably why I'm shit at attempting to restore cars.

Unfortunately, due to physics, it's important to count the number of turns, because that directly affects how the electromagnet works. Same as the diameter of the wire, measured there with micrometer.

It's just a little time consuming, is all.

Phil

[LynehamHerc]

I should have remembered that from my A level Physics I guess but that's many decades ago now. I still remember the formulas for kinetic energy etc. though, maybe because I needed them at uni..

[PhilA]

Another top Phil resto thread - dealing with the little stuff first, I like it!

Well, it was raining and miserable and I didn't want to get filler dust everywhere inside, so I decided I could do the next best thing and start pulling the dash apart.

This just came out first because hey, it's always nice to see if things actually still work.

Phil

[PhilA]

New spool of wire just shipped, is coming in from New Jersey so hopefully that'll be here by about Tuesday.

Phil

[PhilA]

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While I'm waiting for the wire, I decided to do a couple things that needed doing. The insulator bungy on the positive terminal was pretty nasty so I decided to make a new one.

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I cut down a tap washer to match. The grounding strap sits on the larger step and the rubber acts as a spring so it makes good contact with the back of the case.

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The positive terminal sticks through, nicely isolated. That'll do. Something small but it needed doing.

Phil

[PhilA]

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My new stripping discs arrived in the mail today so I decided to continue down the wing and see what was in store. Well, to begin with, rusty steel under filler, high build primer, regular primer and paint.

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The average depth of filler was between 1/16" and 1/8".

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So to begin, the gentle undulations created by the bodywork guy.

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Stripped back, the swage line has two dents about 1/4" deep and there's a couple wrinkly creases.

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Three pound lump hammer and a block of wood.

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Swage line is straight. Need to flatten that lot out.

Phil