Eddie Honda wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 4:44 pm
It's not really a "trick" though is it?
It's called doing the job properly as recommended by the manufacturer.
It's a handy trick if you're unaware of that. 20 years ago I didn't know it was an issue and I scrapped an engine on a NAD 405. I'd been happily motoring, only topping up when the light came on. My mate had a garage I used to help out at and had a breaker up the yard, he nagged me enough that one evening I changed the holed metal pipe that runs by the drivers side wheel front to back. A 3 mile test drive down the road and it was blowing steam like a fucking kettle, wish I'd never touched it.
I replaced the whole engine and ancillaries for £100 (car was 75quid at auction) I think, far cheaper than doing a head gasket properly and having it pressure tested. It was tight as fuck and dog slow! 3 months of thrash and it was transformed I sold it locally to an old boy in the end at 225K and he must have run it for 4/5 years until it finally disappeared.
Nibblet wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 4:30 pm
Some of those 90s cars were problematic because of how low the radiators were as much as their size, made cars prone to HGF if they even lost a little coolant. Difficult to 'burp' some of them in my limited experience too.
Those low bonnet designs were as much a product of styling as a desire for low drag coefficients I guess.
With mine being the facelift the expansion bottle is on drivers inner wing higher than the rad. The earlier ones had the coolant bottle in front of rad just below it. When I fitted the new rad I had the driver side wheel on a ramp too. Force of habit really but a good habit non the less of making sure the bottle is the highest point.
Arthur Foxhake wrote: ↑Fri Dec 08, 2023 5:36 pm
XUD's create a lot more heat in the head, because IDI and pre combustion chamber. DI's don't run as hot.
The main reason Darren Lobb went away from them and did what he did was the excess heat and, not being able to get rid of it.
Thread drift FAO Scruffy, did you see he has revived his channel and built a new workshop with 4WD Dyno? Worth a look. Hopefully see some numbers out of the green machine.
Having the blowers on flat out will surely make a difference still tho?
Yeah, it'll definitely help. I always do it if I'm in fear of overheating, especially if there's a known leak. When the blower goes cold, pull over and top the fucker up!
Been there,done that! Regulate car temp by use of windows!
Having the blowers on flat out will surely make a difference still tho?
Yeah, it'll definitely help. I always do it if I'm in fear of overheating, especially if there's a known leak. When the blower goes cold, pull over and top the fucker up!
Part of the reason I tended to go for 405's was they all seem to have a low water level sensor. Much more sense than the 205 I had with only the you're engine is now fucked light as it didn't even have a temp gauge.
Didn't higher spec 205s get a gauge? These have a level sensor too but mine is fucked. Keeps flashing stop light and level light so it's unplugged.
Nibblet wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 4:30 pm
Some of those 90s cars were problematic because of how low the radiators were as much as their size, made cars prone to HGF if they even lost a little coolant. Difficult to 'burp' some of them in my limited experience too.
Those low bonnet designs were as much a product of styling as a desire for low drag coefficients I guess.
405's suffer exactly that, hence the "pop bottle trick" to raise the water level up as the filler is in the rad itself. It even shows a special* tool in the Haynes that's basically a bottle with the bottom cut off.
205's, 306's all suffer the same issue as the fill point is too low. From what I remember Citroen had a better solution in their models and better bleed points so it wasn't as much of an issue even with the same engines used.
Being as they aren't all alloy cooking them finished a lot of them off, same as Land Rovers with no water level light. The first you know about it is when it's too late.
All my picassos,both berlingos,406,xsara hatch and the partner has a drain on the rad,bleed valve on stat and heater inlet. A good idea to be fair
Yeah, it'll definitely help. I always do it if I'm in fear of overheating, especially if there's a known leak. When the blower goes cold, pull over and top the fucker up!
Part of the reason I tended to go for 405's was they all seem to have a low water level sensor. Much more sense than the 205 I had with only the you're engine is now fucked light as it didn't even have a temp gauge.
Didn't higher spec 205s get a gauge? These have a level sensor too but mine is fucked. Keeps flashing stop light and level light so it's unplugged.
They might have done but this was a povvo spec NAD. It was my first experience of diesel pugs I think? I bought it to save money for the mortgage, my kit car was drinking 2.5K a year in fuel due to a slightly* heavy right foot. A £250 quid 205 capable of very good mpg's on cooking oil at 30p a litre saved me a fortune!
How much is a sensor? It might well be worth fixing it if it's got one?
Had a few 205s in my younger days. When I was driving illegally mainly. A diesel,a TD and an 1100 petrol. I'm sure the stdt had a temp gauge and I think the XR and GT had one too.
I sold it locally to an old boy in the end at 225K and he must have run it for 4/5 years until it finally disappeared.