The Dark Wob

Is it not worth your while having hardened seats put in while the head's off?
If you're not going to use the engine long, it'll make it easier to flog in the future.

I have no intention of flogging the engine... except on the road. I will run this 948 in standard trim and then fit the cylinder head from my existing worn 1098. It’s a common modification to squeeze more power out of the 948, and I have all the parts. I intend this car to last me for the rest of my life.

fried onions wrote: ↑Mon Sep 13, 2021 5:37 pm Also taking orders for Minor hub removal mandrel as shown on last page. £15 including P&P

Potentially interested as I need to pull the nearside hub on mine to replace a graunchy bearing and buggered stud on the hub.

I completed two small but important steps on my station wagon today. First removing the exhaust, to be ultimately discarded, likewise the rotten heat shield. Then assembled the brakes on one side of the axle.

It wasn't long since I'd fitted this exhaust but I had acquired a real Unipart complete one-piece system expressly for this purpose which is formed properly and will be a guaranteed good fit. Although I was given the existing one for free so can't complain.
The (strictly speaking wrong) clamps were a doddle to remove thanks to the leaking pinion oil seal. I have some of the 'proper' clamps ready although there's nothing wrong with these.
I can't decide if this is stainless or not. If it is, then it's a very low grade. As it is a two-piece job, I will use the fore section when I test run my Gold Seal on the lawn, then flog it for some coin along with all the other shite I won't need after I'm finished.
The heatshield is a Minor weakness as it acts as a water trap which is never adequately dried out by the silencer. Consequently the floor rusts away as has happened here. Unfortunately it has been patched from above and although solid the original floor was still underneath. I've since removed all the loose overlapping pieces.
Underneath has received some rust converter and will be followed by a topcoat of Hammerite or whatever I have in the garage. Plus a shiny new heat shield complete with 'asbestos'. They do get rather warm in that area of the floor.

Thence onto re-assembling the rear brakes on the one side (other backplate yet to be prepared). I couldn't remember how I got the short thick spring on and it was such a bastard of a job I gave up and fitted one of the other long springs instead. When I dismantle the remaining side of the old axle with brakes still in situ I should get a clue. Anyway, these springs are easier to deal with and as long as the leading and trailing shoes are fitted correctly it shouldn't make a difference.

Did I say I'm not restoring any more cars?

When I did the big spring on mine, I attached it on both shoes off the car. Then put one on the retaining plate on the car and used a big screwdriver to lever it on.

I think I did similar on the Acclaim and Dolly, fitting both springs, roughly fitting one shoe and then prying the second shoe on rather than trying to tug the springs around on their own with pliers and screwdrivers which only ever seem to end in injury or mauled springs.

captain_70s wrote: ↑Thu Sep 16, 2021 9:15 pmtrying to tug the springs around on their own with pliers and screwdrivers which only ever seem to end in injury or mauled springs.

Proper shoe spring pliers is what you need.

I have a Girling shoe horn and couldn't do it.

Then you can slip and hurt yourself safe in the knowledge you used the correct tool for the job

I found a long enough flat headed screwdriver allows you to be far enough away on the tensioned parts that if they let go, unlikely to impact your digits.