The Dark Wob

AMCrebel wrote: ↑Wed Mar 24, 2021 7:30 pm OK, so far so average. Got it all back together on Sunday - started the car and it ran fine for about five minutes, then cut out and refuses to restart. I assumed I was out of fuel but I've put most of it back and checked the electric pump is delivering it by whipping the pipe off and running it so I can see it flow.
My guess is I've introduced some crap into the carb. Typically for me I've done without an inline fuel filter.
I guess it could be on the electrical side - but I reckon the float is jammed or the jets blocked.
Place bets now.

Rev up and slam a bit of ply down over the venturi, usually gets it to suck the bit of crud through into the intake manifold. I spent a few hours cleaning the carbs on a Sunbeam Alpine a few years ago before I gave up and thought of doing that, two or three times and the pip of shite was sucked through, no more problems after that and a happy octogenarian owner lol.

Got a couple of minutes to look at this.

Decided to put some proper fuel hose on in place of the mackled-up shit I had (part proper fuel hose, part beer lines and part old airline.

Popped it on and order was restored - the fuel gauge works too, although I need to tidy up the wiring - result.

Nibblet wrote: ↑Wed Mar 24, 2021 8:00 pm Those senders, despite being very primitive are generally bloody good, I've mended a few now, make sure to orient it the correct way, although sometimes the arrangement of screws on the lid precludes you getting it wrong!

There aren't any screws in this one - the sender sits on a rubber seal (new one fitted) and then a metal ring with three gaps in it goes over it - you turn the ring to tighten the location of the sender. There is only one way it can go in and still pick up fuel and have the float in the right plane - and the only other way would be diametrically opposed - and it won't fit in the tank and sit on the seal in that orientation.

It is a bit odd in that as far as I can see the whole thing sits in the fuel if the tank is full enough. I always had this vision of them being kept above it - maybe some are but this one definitely isn't, so If I haven't sealed it well enough, fuel will leak out of it if the tank is full.

You can see the arrangement here -
and where it fits in the tank here -

You may well have knocked some shit into the tank disturbing the sender. My old stuff runs a filter at tank exit and again at carb entry, I think I've had one or two instances of blockage but it is easier to change one of those than fuck about in the road with a blocked jet or line.

Inline filter ordered.

Well its taken some time, but I got around to making a start on the electric window switches I ordered and Phil A very kindly helped me to get across the Atlantic. Thank you Phil.
They are much nicer than what's fitted, but I realised that the driver's one will pose a little conundrum - and that made me wonder what the original fitting must have been like.

I have the wiring diagram for this BUT both the master switch for the driver’s door and the diagram are for LHD.

This means the left hand front switch is simpler as it just controls the window in that door. All the others are wired parallel so either the driver or nearest passenger can operate them. For the original US install, the driver could remotely control the front passenger (right hand front) from the right hand left door.

I need to do the reverse of this. All the wiring is present and colour coded as per the US diagram, so maybe the front door switches are actually reversed.

Good luck, hope it is that simple!

Just look at it one door at a time and replicate that, they move to the next door etc.