No more nails I'd bet, most lack the skill to use a hammer.
1956 Chevrolet 210
- Hooli
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
Unfortunately the rear window section is unique to the model although I think 57 would fit - they only made the 4 door hardtop in 56 and 57 - no 55s (except one I saw a pic of that a bloke made from 56 parts.DodgeRover wrote: ↑Sun Sep 06, 2020 7:08 pm Are the body cuts you would need absolutely unique to that one year and model?
If the body mounts are a bit iffy you are probably right - in my mind it wouldn't be the end of the world to level it and get the gaps correct again though if you had the time and space.
Pity this isn't AS where people would throw money at you to buy the most expensive part worn tyres you could find for it!
On my travels over the years chasing down parts I came across a 57 4door hardtop a bloke had in his garden - the roof was fastened to the rear with a length of Dexion on either side so it was worse than mine in a way. That one was a curiosity in that it was a 57 with a 56 dash. For the RHD 57s they didn't use the 57 dash - just kept the 56 one.
http://www.americantorque.com/page/0/3448/
The rear wheel arches and doors are unique to the models and year, but the floor and mountings are the same for 56 and 57.
Real Deal Steel in the US sells a new floor complete - but I'd need the outer sills as well (Which they now do) but that wouldn't solve my rear window problems.
Also flip knows what the shipping would be like for such a big lump of steel and the taxman would want his cut - the floor is over 2k (Dollars)
https://realdealsteel.com/i-20145111-19 ... floor.html
They also sell a complete new body - in quite a few styles but not mine.
They also have some repair sections for another rotten area on mine -
https://realdealsteel.com/i-20144886-19 ... -pair.html
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
Decided to have hack at some of this today - the smell of wob was strong
Someone's welded stuff here before - probably many times I've been battling the set screws for the door striker - finally beat the top one by several sucessive sized drills and an easy-out thing
Knocked a big chunk of wob and newspaper out of here where the sill meets the front of the rear wheel arch Various chunks of wob - I suspect from more than one go here Pulling off a non-standard plate over the sill on the bottom of the door jamb revealed extremely crusty inner sill.
Someone's welded stuff here before - probably many times I've been battling the set screws for the door striker - finally beat the top one by several sucessive sized drills and an easy-out thing
Knocked a big chunk of wob and newspaper out of here where the sill meets the front of the rear wheel arch Various chunks of wob - I suspect from more than one go here Pulling off a non-standard plate over the sill on the bottom of the door jamb revealed extremely crusty inner sill.
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
That's wobtastic! clever how they used little bits of rusty metal to join the lumps of wob together.
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
Yeah tried that - a few times over the 20 years Was going to have a go with the windy gun but I can't find the fucker.Eddie Honda wrote: ↑Sat Sep 12, 2020 7:19 pmFirst line of attack on these is a hand impact driver with a decent bit.
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
Yup. Looks like my sills. Glad to see GM managed to continue incorporating the same rust traps year after year.
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
Had a read of the workshop manual last night and it seems there is quite a lot of adjustment that can be made to the doors which is encouraging although not likely to be relevant until there is anything there for them to interact with.
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
Have you had a chance to play with the metal working equipment you bought to fix this? Just doing that might give you a boost to make bits piece by piece?
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Re: 1956 Chevrolet 210
I haven't (it's still in the box) but that is a good shout
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