The Dark Wob

If they are Lockheed/Girling wheel cylinders I would not throw them away. Although they look like someone already has done. A 72 degree thermostat is far too low for one of these. Fit an 82.

Eddie Honda wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 2:14 am

BenHar wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 10:20 pm Is that really in the book?

BenHar wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 10:28 pm Ah, reviews. But is it actually in the book?

BenHar wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 10:42 pm FFS!

Got a scan?

Benny, Are you calling the RBJ and SiC liars? How many times do you need to ask?

Let me Google it for you:
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=TxZ ... mp&f=false

Screenshot_20200530_021302.png

Now move the fuck on.

Sorry, I wasn't doubting it.

Just wanted to see it in all it's moronity.

Thanks
Ben

Was there ever a pump at the prototype stage?

Don't think so. I think Dr Moulton wanted to avoid complicated nonsense like that.

Aye. Best left to those masters of convolution, the French.

fried onions wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 8:14 pm If they are Lockheed/Girling wheel cylinders I would not throw them away. Although they look like someone already has done. A 72 degree thermostat is far too low for one of these. Fit an 82.

Cylinders look too new on the inside to be original, so likely the throw-away modern ones. Thankfully they are shared with other vehicles (iirc MK1 is Spridget, MK2/MK3 is MGB Roadster) and so easily available. It's why I'm just going to replace them with new ones as even though they aren't appearing to be leaking at the moment, there is a good chance they will. Plus the bleed nipple is rusted to all buggery.

Thermostat must be a 74C in it according to this. For Hot climates but as previous, I suspect it was put in as a bodge. But I don't know for sure until I remove it. Could be duff too. I've got a replacement from Moss to go in but need to pick the gasket up, unless I happen to have a spare kicking around.

In terms of original consumables, I did notice yesterday that the coil has this (presumably) date code on the back of it. Shame its painted in some rubbish silver paint. If I can be arsed, I may try removing the paint and bring it back to the original bare finish.

Coils aren't a consumable.

Stripped down, cleaned up and rebuilt the carb yesterday afternoon and evening. I won't deny, I do enjoy cleaning up these carbs. That could just be the fumes from the carb cleaner making me feel jolly though...

Pretty filthy both inside and out to begin with.



The choke trunnion continued to give up a fight. Basically appears that the screw head you're supposed to undo to release the cable had previously snapped off. Ended up resorting to using a Dremel to cut the wire section in half to release it.


Cleaned all the component pieces using a toothbrush with carb cleaner and brake cleaner. I didn't take the throttle disc out it turned smoothly and no real noticeable play on the shaft either.


This photo was more of a reminder on the order on which the choke mechanism goes back together. Only bit that was fiddly to get right.


Then was a case of reassembly using the gasket kit to replace any rubber or metal washers.



And yes, I did give the dashpot a quick polish with autosol. Looks like someone has fitted a bling polished one at sometime. Perhaps I should fit that polished chrome VP rocker cover to match. It's only right on a British classic to have the engine all blinged up while the rest of the car is tatty and rotten.

The Reverend Bluejeans wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 12:37 pm I acquired an 1100/1300 book by James Taylor.

No, not that one.

It tells all about the engine driven pump for the hydrolastic.

That was the BMC Holy Grail; the Austin 3-litre.

Top work Simon loving this thread

That overspray around the engine bay would drive me nuts though

On the Triumph oil filter that bottom retaining washer has some form of non return valve built into it, same as TR7 and Dolly. My current stag had it missing when I bought it 26 years ago. Yay unfiltered oil. Seems to be quite a common issue I guess.

That coil, get at it with steel wool and paint stripper. Then waft it with a clear engine lacquer to keep the alloy corrosion away. I might do assembled carb bodys this way too, just make sure you do it the army method. Fully assembled and then paint/lacquer