1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)

[Hooli]

I was never impressed with those gland fittings for the pipe on the carbs either. I recall it was a right arse getting them to reseal when I stripped the carbs on my MG years ago.

[Eddie Honda]

Completely welded onto the studs again. Any suggestions on how best to get this off?

arthur-brown-barbara-fg.jpg (118.91 KiB) Viewed 3842 times

USE FIRE! (obviously)

[SiC]

What did you hit the last one with? I'd spray it liberally, repeatedly with some sort of thin penetrant and leave it for a decent amount of time and then thump it about with a decent piece of wood and a heavy/lump hammer. Hit it at the base in a clockwise then counter clockwise motion until it starts to move as that'll be the strongest bit.

Mallet. Ended up cracking off the hose pipe section. After that I went medieval with a chisel and hammer.

The housings are cheap and easy to obtain I would cut it off being very careful of the studs.

They are reasonably cheap but it would be nice to keep this one. The new ones look a bit too shiny and out of place for quite a while.

[SiC]

Completely welded onto the studs again. Any suggestions on how best to get this off?

arthur-brown-barbara-fg.jpg

USE FIRE! (obviously)

I literally have no idea who that is.

Did consider fire but I'm limited on fire sources. Not sure a head gun will be good enough. Really ought to get a MAP torch. Also I do have a habit of setting fire to stuff too.

Could always weld a nut on the top and then brute force/impact wrench the stud out with it.

[Hooli]

Arthur Brown I'd presume.

[youtube][/youtube]

[richardthestag]

stud extractor on those thermostat cover studs, after using wd penetration fluid.

Stag and Triumph slant 4s have this issue on a bigger and more expensive scale, steel studs through alloy casings.

Blow torch heat on the alloy therm cover along side the stuck studs before extracting with double nuts gets them out. then use a drill on the cover to open the stud holes out a little. new studs coated with coppereaze helps but doesn't solve electrolytic corrosion

Oh Lord I remember those jet sets and the leaks! forever replacing them but am sure now that they could not possibly have worn out that quick

[MLOR]

I have a kit of little hole saws that fit over the stud and you turn them by hand to cut down thro the corrosion to free the housing. Used to be quite common with certain engines.
When I'm sober I'll try and get a photo.
(Maybe be some time.)

[SiC]

Stag and Triumph slant 4s have this issue on a bigger and more expensive scale, steel studs through alloy casings.

Sounds like some more fun when the Sprint eventually makes its way back.

[richardthestag]

Stag and Triumph slant 4s have this issue on a bigger and more expensive scale, steel studs through alloy casings.

Sounds like some more fun when the Sprint eventually makes its way back.

Yes, now there are many alternatives to the sledge hammer approach of the 70s and 80s

only yank that head if you absolutely have no alternatives

[SiC]

Stag and Triumph slant 4s have this issue on a bigger and more expensive scale, steel studs through alloy casings.

Sounds like some more fun when the Sprint eventually makes its way back.

Yes, now there are many alternatives to the sledge hammer approach of the 70s and 80s

only yank that head if you absolutely have no alternatives

Those angled head bolts on the Sprint head give me the fear. Definitely have zero interest touching any of that unless strictly necessary. Even then probably pass the lump to someone who has worked on them before. Replacement Sprint engined are no longer cheap!