That awful colour MGB GT
- fried onions
- Posts: 3316
- Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:29 pm
- Location: In my safe space (the garage).
- Has thanked: 1449 times
- Been thanked: 2372 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
Why do you need to remove the steering wheel?
Squire Dawson
HUMBER - built stronger to last longer.
HUMBER - built stronger to last longer.
-
- It's S small i C
- Posts: 9386
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2019 8:59 am
- Has thanked: 1827 times
- Been thanked: 5408 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
I was waiting for that question!
To put an aftermarket one on that's a bit smaller, more comfortable and nicer to hold. It's not a wooden one.
However I want to keep the original one as it's likely original to the car. Like every other part I've replaced I have kept if the next custodian wishes to put it back to original. Hence I'm trying everything possible to not damage it.
To put an aftermarket one on that's a bit smaller, more comfortable and nicer to hold. It's not a wooden one.
However I want to keep the original one as it's likely original to the car. Like every other part I've replaced I have kept if the next custodian wishes to put it back to original. Hence I'm trying everything possible to not damage it.
-
- It's S small i C
- Posts: 9386
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2019 8:59 am
- Has thanked: 1827 times
- Been thanked: 5408 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
This is the proper service tool that the workshop manual specifies:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1539452832
Pretty sure any old puller tool will do the job, including the one use Chinese cheapies. Something like this one:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1678494754
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1539452832
Pretty sure any old puller tool will do the job, including the one use Chinese cheapies. Something like this one:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1678494754
-
- It's S small i C
- Posts: 9386
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2019 8:59 am
- Has thanked: 1827 times
- Been thanked: 5408 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
Still waiting on the puller tool. Hopefully it'll come tomorrow.
In the meantime I checked the plugs to see what they were like after the last run.
Plug 1
Plug 2
Plug 3
Plug 4
To me they look good enough to warrant not fiddling with the mixture anymore. Back plug is still looking a bit more sooted. My suspicion is either the plug lead isn't making so great contact after being reconnected numerous times or just a quirk of being an old engine.
I then torqued up the steering nut to 45 lbft and went for another drive.
Right now I've done 40 miles since it's come down from the garage last week. Still little miles but a massive difference from previously. Feel like I need to take it on a proper run soon.
Only thing holding me back is that these brakes are going to likely need work. Discs got to 100c again and that's only 30mph town driving. I can feel slight fluctuations on the pedal now that I'm sure wasn't there before. I think I'll just go throw a bit more money at it and just replace the whole front lot.
Also since starting to drive it, the left auto cancel has broken. This is something I'll ignore and leave as a old car character. Stalk looks original and it'll be sad to replace it with a modern crappy retro.
Other problem turned out to be a non problem. Fuel gauge is reading a bit low. At first I thought it was the repro regulator. Probably was as that went open circuit. I then put a old original Lucas one on. However they aren't particularly precise things and not really that great a design. So I've got a much better looking thing in the post.
Anyway the gauge is currently reading this level.
Which checking the resistance gives.
Looking up online this corresponds to:
20Ω = Full
35Ω = 3/4
65Ω = 1/2
105Ω = 1/4
222Ω = Empty
So providing the sender isn't ballsed up then I am just under half a tank. Sender is a modern one but it looked a decent design and well made. Also the level has been dropping, not rising.
Seems to have dropped quite a bit more than I expected. I filled the tank up shortly before putting it away last year. So either some has evaporated out since filling it up or its leaked out. Possibly leaked out in storage as those fixings were loose when I started it up the other weekend.
Hopefully it's not got a leak elsewhere! Probably just from using it too.
In the meantime I checked the plugs to see what they were like after the last run.
Plug 1
Plug 2
Plug 3
Plug 4
To me they look good enough to warrant not fiddling with the mixture anymore. Back plug is still looking a bit more sooted. My suspicion is either the plug lead isn't making so great contact after being reconnected numerous times or just a quirk of being an old engine.
I then torqued up the steering nut to 45 lbft and went for another drive.
Right now I've done 40 miles since it's come down from the garage last week. Still little miles but a massive difference from previously. Feel like I need to take it on a proper run soon.
Only thing holding me back is that these brakes are going to likely need work. Discs got to 100c again and that's only 30mph town driving. I can feel slight fluctuations on the pedal now that I'm sure wasn't there before. I think I'll just go throw a bit more money at it and just replace the whole front lot.
Also since starting to drive it, the left auto cancel has broken. This is something I'll ignore and leave as a old car character. Stalk looks original and it'll be sad to replace it with a modern crappy retro.
Other problem turned out to be a non problem. Fuel gauge is reading a bit low. At first I thought it was the repro regulator. Probably was as that went open circuit. I then put a old original Lucas one on. However they aren't particularly precise things and not really that great a design. So I've got a much better looking thing in the post.
Anyway the gauge is currently reading this level.
Which checking the resistance gives.
Looking up online this corresponds to:
20Ω = Full
35Ω = 3/4
65Ω = 1/2
105Ω = 1/4
222Ω = Empty
So providing the sender isn't ballsed up then I am just under half a tank. Sender is a modern one but it looked a decent design and well made. Also the level has been dropping, not rising.
Seems to have dropped quite a bit more than I expected. I filled the tank up shortly before putting it away last year. So either some has evaporated out since filling it up or its leaked out. Possibly leaked out in storage as those fixings were loose when I started it up the other weekend.
Hopefully it's not got a leak elsewhere! Probably just from using it too.
- Eddie Honda
- Rainman The Google Fu Master
- Posts: 21587
- Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2019 10:45 pm
- Location: 寄居町
- Has thanked: 13491 times
- Been thanked: 13281 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
........................................................... fucking hell!
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
Never driven an MGB, but really starting to like them.
Good work so far on this.
Good work so far on this.
- fried onions
- Posts: 3316
- Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:29 pm
- Location: In my safe space (the garage).
- Has thanked: 1449 times
- Been thanked: 2372 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
This is generally what happens when you drive cars...Also the level has been dropping, not rising.
Squire Dawson
HUMBER - built stronger to last longer.
HUMBER - built stronger to last longer.
-
- It's S small i C
- Posts: 9386
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2019 8:59 am
- Has thanked: 1827 times
- Been thanked: 5408 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
Puller not arrived yet. Hopefully tomorrow.
Regulator came though, it's what I expected.
A 10v regulator in a box with wires soldered on. Proper cottage industry/giffer made item. I wished the regulator was mounted on a PCB but at least the legs are mostly supported by glue.
Gauge went to the expected level. Hopefully the last of me having to fiddle with this setup.
While I was in a fiddling mood, I decided to look at the indicators not cancelling on a left command. The plastic cancelling mechanism wasn't broken, just didn't work.
Left action.
Right action (what it's supposed to do).
With a bit of carefully* and precisely* applied insulation tape, the mechanism started working again.
I suspect the issue was that the left slider piece had smoothed off too much from use and didn't have enough friction. Also of note is how remarkably clean this switch is. Both from dirt and dust. Pretty certain this is a genuine Lucas item. Either original or replaced around when they were still made properly.
After that, I packed my tools in the boot and went for another pleasant drive. A total of 50 miles this year...!
I did notice the running change slightly during the drive and also noticed that rev counter stops counting above around 3.5k rpm. I will check the gap tomorrow in case the crappy points have closed up a bit. There is a electronic amplifier in between the points and the coil, so if it has closed up a bit, it'll be harder to detect the signs.
Really, really must get my original dizzy sent off and fixed asap!
Regulator came though, it's what I expected.
A 10v regulator in a box with wires soldered on. Proper cottage industry/giffer made item. I wished the regulator was mounted on a PCB but at least the legs are mostly supported by glue.
Gauge went to the expected level. Hopefully the last of me having to fiddle with this setup.
While I was in a fiddling mood, I decided to look at the indicators not cancelling on a left command. The plastic cancelling mechanism wasn't broken, just didn't work.
Left action.
Right action (what it's supposed to do).
With a bit of carefully* and precisely* applied insulation tape, the mechanism started working again.
I suspect the issue was that the left slider piece had smoothed off too much from use and didn't have enough friction. Also of note is how remarkably clean this switch is. Both from dirt and dust. Pretty certain this is a genuine Lucas item. Either original or replaced around when they were still made properly.
After that, I packed my tools in the boot and went for another pleasant drive. A total of 50 miles this year...!
I did notice the running change slightly during the drive and also noticed that rev counter stops counting above around 3.5k rpm. I will check the gap tomorrow in case the crappy points have closed up a bit. There is a electronic amplifier in between the points and the coil, so if it has closed up a bit, it'll be harder to detect the signs.
Really, really must get my original dizzy sent off and fixed asap!
-
- It's S small i C
- Posts: 9386
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2019 8:59 am
- Has thanked: 1827 times
- Been thanked: 5408 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
It's what I was trying to allude to in my post but badly structured it.fried onions wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 5:07 pmThis is generally what happens when you drive cars...Also the level has been dropping, not rising.
However it is going down far more rapidly than initially expected. But then I don't know quite how these gauges are supposed to behave. Linear certainly they won't.
In fact the delta between the resistances at higher tank fills is less. So possibly going to have less variation and quicker moving when there is more fuel in the tank?
I'm looking forward to getting some fresh fuel in the tank and seeing if the running improves further. Debating whether to fill up at the usual Shell or try Esso. Esso claim their Super Unleaded is ethanol free. Not sure it'll make too much difference though if I'm actually using the car.
Alternatively if I travel 15-20 miles or so, there is a garage that still stocks 4 star leaded fuel. Interested to see how it reacts to that too.
Speaking of fuel gauges and filling up, I must remember to fill up my petrol can and keep it in the car as an emergency backup...
- Eddie Honda
- Rainman The Google Fu Master
- Posts: 21587
- Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2019 10:45 pm
- Location: 寄居町
- Has thanked: 13491 times
- Been thanked: 13281 times
Re: That awful colour MGB GT
........................................................... fucking hell!