How to buy a car in the lockdown.Take two. Bentley Turbo R

[Bangernomics]

I’ll pester again for an idiots guide to buying an ok one. I grew up in the Crewe/Nantwich area and my dad did his apprenticeship at RR, he managed 21 years then did his HGV test and said I’m not working inside a factory ever again. He retired 4 years ago now and is bored to death.

I remember going to the open days from school and in particular being taken for a run in a turbo charged Bentley R? It had the wheels spinning inside the tyres until they (screwed?) them on.

[panhard65]

I have been looking at a few issues on it this morning, I didn't notice the passenger memory seat wasn't working so pulled the seat ecu out and sure enough a leaky battery has damaged the circuit board. I will drop it into my electronics guy and get him to solder a new battery in. They are 900 quid plus for a new one. The other fault is it didn't feel stupid quick when I drove it and apparently they are prone to sticking turbo solenoids if they have sat about so I have disconnected it which should give it a full boost. If it has full boost when I try it disconnected then it will need a new solenoid.
Now how to buy a good one, that's a tricky question. I can only answer with how I buy them and my expectations. Prices are all over the place but 2 grand is pretty much a breaker. For a runner that is sound around 4 to 5k. History is important but not the end of the world. The first bit I look at is tyres. If they are running the proper good brand tyres then someone looked after it, Avons are the most common. If it has budget or even worse van tyres walk away as it will be shit. The best model to go for in my opinion is the Turbo R. They are fuel injected so slightly better on fuel. The earlier carb cars are supposed to be a bit unreliable as well but are cheaper. The 1990 on are fitted with active ride which makes them drive a bit better but also is a lot dearer when it goes wrong. The real late ones with the updated injection and single coil per cylinder are real shit and best avoided.
They do rust in the usual places sills and arches are the main areas. The rear trailing arms rust as well but repair spring pans are available. There are loads of buying guides about that will tell you how to test the brake systems which are a lot simpler than the experts make out. As long as the lights go out when you start it within about 30 seconds they are ok. They should also stay off if you run the car and turn it off, switch the ignition back on and pump the brake pedal until the lights come on, it should be at least 20 pumps.
For an entry purchase I wouldn't spend too much, the same as anything the more money you have tied up in it the harder it is to walk away when things get really expensive. The one that got me looking at them again was at DVCA but appears to of been sold now. It was an early car at 3.5k. The one in Crewe I had my eye on also wasn't bad at 4500 but I just don't think it was as good as I have bought, still an ok buy if it is as good as it looked.
The most important thing to remember is they can cost a fortune but if you are only doing a couple of thousand miles a year there is no need for it to break the bank as long as you look after it and don't let the rot set in.

[Bangernomics]

Thanks for that I’ll probably go view the one in Crewe when I can get back over. I’ll get the dodgy characters to get him to tell the truth about any problems first.

[panhard65]

Thanks for that I’ll probably go view the one in Crewe when I can get back over. I’ll get the dodgy characters to get him to tell the truth about any problems first.

I have been looking into tyres this morning and I am certain the ones he has fitted are incorrect as only Avon make the correct tyre if you can get them. I would check they are at least V rated as they are supposed to be W also check they are car tyres rather than van tyres as it will ruin the driving experience on shit tyres. Another thing I have found with mine is a sticking boost solenoid. If it feels like there is not much boost it will be this valve. Disconnect the hoses and try again, this is only as a test because you can damage the engine if you leave them disconnected. The difference on mine was amazing it takes off like a stabbed rat. I will modify mine once I get an mot on it and fit the valve from a Saab turbo which is a hell of a lot cheaper than the Bentley one. These are all things to use to drive the price down. If he still has it in a month or so there is a good chance he will budge on price.

[panhard65]

Well that was a good day. I took the Bentley in for mot this morning and it has only gone and passed !! Result !!

[MLOR]

Excellent!

[Hooli]

Brilliant!

[mercrocker]

I'm nearly as pleased about that as when mine pass.....

[xtriple]

Still not jealous



Fukkin much!

[brandersnatch]

Now that’s very good news.