What did you do today?

[panhard65]

I haven't done one in ages and have never changed the pulley unless it was faulty. If you are doing it yourself I would just put a belt on and tensioners if they have been on a while or feel rough. Half the reason for the recommendation of replacing these bits is the extra cost of more labour if they fail further down the line. If I have one come in I will warn the customer but leave it up to them cos if it fails a few months later I can charge for the job again, bit harsh but you have to earn a living. When the dephaser goes it just tends to get noisey well before any serious damage.

[SiC]

Ended up deciding to buy a kit with a dephaser. Oil changes were on the dot until 2012 when there was a 3yr/28k gap to the next. Given they don't like missed oil changes and it's almost certainly original dephaser, so pushing my luck not to change it.

Managed to get to this stage yesterday evening. Bit of a milestone for me as it's my first cambelt change. (Not going to post the full write up as less interest here for it)


In other news, the crank pulley I ordered has been cancelled. Bloody irritating as I need to find another source. Really do not want to pay Renault £160 for theirs.

[DodgeRover]

While it's apart you might as well do it as you intend keeping it.
Nothing scary about cam belt changes, you are smart enough to be methodical and make sure it's right, the first one you do is always the most difficult. Just some are more awkward than others.

[SiC]

Well! If I ever find a really decent 182 for not stupid money then I'll be selling this. However given them appreciating in price, I should get half my money back at least because of this being done. Especially as this job is the one everyone fears doing and it must be done right.

I'm interested to see if there are any power gains. It's reported that if it's not timed bang on then they are noticably down on power.

It's the water pump I'm dreading the most to replace. Hate fluids on cars, risks not sealing right, scraping the gasket off with little room and the bolts looks decidedly crusty and are well known for snapping off.

[DodgeRover]

Now that is something to be worried about!

[Drum]

Parts for the Renault 5's transmission oil cooler arrived.

An o-ring to seal cooler to gearbox and a copper washer for the bolt head. The original bolt had an o-ring at the bolt head, so I'm hoping this means I don't need a bolt with a shoulder.

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[Bangernomics]

Patch plastered and painted not my house. Obviously adhering to quarantine rules etc.


Less annoying tag line.

[Nibblet]

Popped some new brake pads on the rear of the 9000 on Saturday, easy enough apart from having to borrow a 7mm allen socket to wind back the callipers.
Then took a look at the voltage regulator I had bought for the Datsun. It looks identical to the one in Haynes so in a happy frame of mind I swapped It into the car and flicked the ignition over. Once running though the voltage remained at about 12.5. I will look closer at It next weekend.
The Lucas one that was fitted cannot be taken apart its resin bonded around the rear; I checked the battery with that fitted and got around 14.5V, sounds about right to me, however there were periods when the battery was registering nearly 17V- whats going on there? I also note that when idling the lights go rather dull, at least in my experience for a car with an alternator.

[Drum]

Relationship with Mr neighbour has recently thawed after years of him objecting to my presence and plans to convert the tumbledown Mill.

Yesterday had a knock at the door from Mrs neighbour asking me to assist Mr neighbour who had broken down. He has a TD5 disco as a 'country car' which only gets very occasional use. The disco had FTPed half a mile up the road and I was asked if I had jump leads.

The battery was fine, spinning the engine over no bother.

Pretending I knew what I was talking about, I suggested it was a fuelling issue. I could hear the fuel pump working in the tank and thought it might be the fuel filter which lives beside the OFR wheel.

Before towing him home, I suggested priming the fuel system which I seemed to remember involved pumping the throttle pedal several times while the ignition was on. It only worked and burst into life, allowing him to drive it home!

He now thinks I'm a mechanical genius and I'll leave him in ignorance on that score. Mind you, he thinks jump leads are the go to fix for a broken down car.

The disco runs out of mot in October and apparently has a the usual rear chassis rot. He wants rid and is talking about WBAC. He wondered if I wanted it! Tempting, but I might end up in a shallow grave if another broken vehicle appears in the drive.

[Eddie Honda]

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