Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit
- Hooli
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
With everything else you already do you should make a 'peg board' for the various types of loom, order in miles of wire in various colours & make your own.
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
Not so long ago you could have bought the 200Tdi Rangie for £360!
If the engine loom not the same as that of a 200Tdi Disco ?
If the engine loom not the same as that of a 200Tdi Disco ?
- richardthestag
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
similar but finding a 1990 one for £360
Now have a 1993 loom which came from a 200tdi RR, except for the engine / gearpox loom. It will work. Getting onto that again after I have finished the rear axle, bled the brakes and dropped it all back onto the ground
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- Hooli
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
richardthestag wrote: ↑Wed Nov 06, 2019 12:37 pm
similar but finding a 1990 one for £360
Now have a 1993 loom which came from a 200tdi RR, except for the engine / gearpox loom. It will work. Getting onto that again after I have finished the rear axle, bled the brakes and dropped it all back onto my hand
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- richardthestag
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
Been a while sorry
Episode 2-5 of the HGF are on yootoob, it is working now
Piccy update is as follows
all this is to replace the 3 core/freeze plugs down each side of the engine block On the drivers side, the starter motor and engine mount need to be removed. Engine mount was tired The heat shield that protects the starter from exhaust heat was broken. Fix was easy and dare I say elegant*
for something that is hidden from view Next is the passenger side, again engine mount needs to be removed, again it was tired 5 of the 6 core plugs were very tired, this is one of the better ones heads were skimmed <5thou, responded well. Engine will be reassembled with composite gaskets which are more forgiving and thicker than OE tin gaskets. So compression ratio should be ok. assembled valves after re grinding the seats. Of course valve, spring, collets all went back into the hole from where they came from assembled exhaust manifolds because I thought it would make life easier. It didn't on the passenger side head but did on the drivers side. so all square on that then camshaft was next to go in, along with timing gear. did this before heads went on as dead easy to see top dead centre once chain fitted, the heads went on and were torqued down... except for the outer row of bolts on each head More coming
Episode 2-5 of the HGF are on yootoob, it is working now
Piccy update is as follows
all this is to replace the 3 core/freeze plugs down each side of the engine block On the drivers side, the starter motor and engine mount need to be removed. Engine mount was tired The heat shield that protects the starter from exhaust heat was broken. Fix was easy and dare I say elegant*
for something that is hidden from view Next is the passenger side, again engine mount needs to be removed, again it was tired 5 of the 6 core plugs were very tired, this is one of the better ones heads were skimmed <5thou, responded well. Engine will be reassembled with composite gaskets which are more forgiving and thicker than OE tin gaskets. So compression ratio should be ok. assembled valves after re grinding the seats. Of course valve, spring, collets all went back into the hole from where they came from assembled exhaust manifolds because I thought it would make life easier. It didn't on the passenger side head but did on the drivers side. so all square on that then camshaft was next to go in, along with timing gear. did this before heads went on as dead easy to see top dead centre once chain fitted, the heads went on and were torqued down... except for the outer row of bolts on each head More coming
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."
- richardthestag
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
part deux on the HGF fix
old engine mounts were temporarily fitted so I could get the heads on, then they had to be removed for replacement with a new OE product that is almost certainly made from butter timing cover was cleaned and oil pump built up with new parts. Original water pump was fitted with new gasket and quite a bit of instant gasket, the water pump was leaking before. Making sure it doesnt again all goes together easily but is very time consuming once the oil pump is primed, the distributor can be installed and the engine can be started. Bit of a faff because rotor was one tooth out. Got there in the end. Then a small misfire which turned out to be a dodgy injector connector on #1 injector ignition timing set, then installed cooling fan and cowl. Next is to bed the new cam in. 2k rpm for 20 mins It did use a little coolant, pressure tester found two leaks, bottom hose and hose to the LPG vaporiser temporary snow fun Original LPG fault that blew the plenum inlet pipe apart was due to one dodgy wire on this connector. pulled the crimp connector out, soldered a wire to it and then connected it back together. Victory 400 mile drive found performance to be improved. torque is impressive again (not that it wasn't before) economy is no different at all, even though I was <2.5k rpm for the 400 mile test.
Bottom hose is leaking slightly at the radiator and the heads need retorquing. Else that is it!
old engine mounts were temporarily fitted so I could get the heads on, then they had to be removed for replacement with a new OE product that is almost certainly made from butter timing cover was cleaned and oil pump built up with new parts. Original water pump was fitted with new gasket and quite a bit of instant gasket, the water pump was leaking before. Making sure it doesnt again all goes together easily but is very time consuming once the oil pump is primed, the distributor can be installed and the engine can be started. Bit of a faff because rotor was one tooth out. Got there in the end. Then a small misfire which turned out to be a dodgy injector connector on #1 injector ignition timing set, then installed cooling fan and cowl. Next is to bed the new cam in. 2k rpm for 20 mins It did use a little coolant, pressure tester found two leaks, bottom hose and hose to the LPG vaporiser temporary snow fun Original LPG fault that blew the plenum inlet pipe apart was due to one dodgy wire on this connector. pulled the crimp connector out, soldered a wire to it and then connected it back together. Victory 400 mile drive found performance to be improved. torque is impressive again (not that it wasn't before) economy is no different at all, even though I was <2.5k rpm for the 400 mile test.
Bottom hose is leaking slightly at the radiator and the heads need retorquing. Else that is it!
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."
- richardthestag
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
with that ^^^ distraction, not a huge amount of time has been on Southpaw. Mrs is glad that I am back on it and that money is coming in again
diagnosed the 5 connectors that go to the engine and gearbox. Identified which I need and made up a loom specifically for the 200tdi LT77 setup this car has. Just need to connect it into the main loom Finished off installing rear light electrics head light bowls fitted, which were then fitted with the original lights but new bezels. not without it's challenges! cheapo nasty fucking shite headlight units Engine fan has gert big lumps taken out of it. I need to do a timing belt replacement on this engine. Aiming to sort the fan at the same time Fuel filter was removed from drivers side location, it may go back to passenger side which I have the backet for. jury is out front prop went on, captive bolts at the transfer box end were UNF but I think had metric nuts hammered onto them because they were a cunt ( and I do NOT use that word lightly) to do. By the time I realised I had 3 done up, one to go... which was a weapons grade little feller I can tell you bumper and spoiler are now bolted in place, repro bumper looks nice, would be even nicer if they had welded the bolts in the right fucking place dash top was installed over the heater and connectors were being connected up ......
diagnosed the 5 connectors that go to the engine and gearbox. Identified which I need and made up a loom specifically for the 200tdi LT77 setup this car has. Just need to connect it into the main loom Finished off installing rear light electrics head light bowls fitted, which were then fitted with the original lights but new bezels. not without it's challenges! cheapo nasty fucking shite headlight units Engine fan has gert big lumps taken out of it. I need to do a timing belt replacement on this engine. Aiming to sort the fan at the same time Fuel filter was removed from drivers side location, it may go back to passenger side which I have the backet for. jury is out front prop went on, captive bolts at the transfer box end were UNF but I think had metric nuts hammered onto them because they were a cunt ( and I do NOT use that word lightly) to do. By the time I realised I had 3 done up, one to go... which was a weapons grade little feller I can tell you bumper and spoiler are now bolted in place, repro bumper looks nice, would be even nicer if they had welded the bolts in the right fucking place dash top was installed over the heater and connectors were being connected up ......
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."
- Hooli
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
Oh Tdi timing belts. I'm sure you'll be doing the tensioner & idler too as a matter of course, you've got an old fashioned torque wrench with the deflecting pointer to set the belt? I think it's about 18lb/ft, if that's right I'll worry as not done one for about 14-15 years.
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- richardthestag
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
bringing us up to date on Southpaw
finally got myself organised and arranged a bulkhead blank plate, was then able to install loom and bracket for fuel filter... which might be too close to the exhaust then the heater came back out again the owner mentioned that he thought the matrix was leaking. The tester suggested that it was however it was some gloop/glue/shit on the bottom pipe that was not allowing the flexi to seat properly. still while it was apart I was able to peer into the unit and found buckets of mould foam remains and sand. cleaned it all out replaced the rear wiper motor which was seized solid and burned out heater unit was reassembled with new foams fitted and tested fine installed, along with the dash top and then the steering column and controls. Had to splice old and new connectors for the front wiper motor and the ignition switch. tomorrow electrics test I think
finally got myself organised and arranged a bulkhead blank plate, was then able to install loom and bracket for fuel filter... which might be too close to the exhaust then the heater came back out again the owner mentioned that he thought the matrix was leaking. The tester suggested that it was however it was some gloop/glue/shit on the bottom pipe that was not allowing the flexi to seat properly. still while it was apart I was able to peer into the unit and found buckets of mould foam remains and sand. cleaned it all out replaced the rear wiper motor which was seized solid and burned out heater unit was reassembled with new foams fitted and tested fine installed, along with the dash top and then the steering column and controls. Had to splice old and new connectors for the front wiper motor and the ignition switch. tomorrow electrics test I think
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."
- richardthestag
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun
yes bought a kit with the whole shebang, doesnt look too nasty* compared to a V8 top end rebuildHooli wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2019 9:04 pm Oh Tdi timing belts. I'm sure you'll be doing the tensioner & idler too as a matter of course, you've got an old fashioned torque wrench with the deflecting pointer to set the belt? I think it's about 18lb/ft, if that's right I'll worry as not done one for about 14-15 years.
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."