Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Talk about your cars etc here. Keep it sort of sensible and on topic please.
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AutoshiteBoy
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by AutoshiteBoy »

You wouldn't want to work on a TD5 would you? N/S/R wheel arch? I've got a replacement section.
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by richardthestag »

Scruffy Bodger wrote: Sat May 29, 2021 12:11 pm ^ WOT he says 8-)

Del the Blacksmith has the big daddy version of your welder, single phase, 400 Amps. With 1.2mm wire in it I've had to turn it down when welding 10mm steel as it blows thru :shock: He also optioned the 10m extension on the wire feed unit so it's a very useful bit of kit indeed. Hopefully it'll prove reliable as it's not all singing all dancing synergic bollox and you still have control over the settings. https://www.weldingsuppliesdirect.co.uk ... elder.html

Ps. How hung over were you when you agreed to buy that P38 you masochist :lol:
P38 was a cheeky bid that I thought wouldn't be accepted. Plan is to TFR it, pump the tyres up and leave it outside the front of my unit until I am brave enough to lob a battery into it :lol:
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by richardthestag »

AutoshiteBoy wrote: Sat May 29, 2021 8:18 pm You wouldn't want to work on a TD5 would you? N/S/R wheel arch? I've got a replacement section.
I am currently flat out on projects and customer work until late this year. Where are you? there are a couple of trusted bodyshops near me on the state who might be able to do something quicker
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by Hooli »

Excellent, I'd missed updates on the minor work these paragons of reliability & rust proofing need.
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by richardthestag »

right another 2 month update.

pretty much where I started from on 4 June. Alas just agreed to do all the panel prep and paint on this car. Steve the Body is way too busy and the timescales are short. gaaaah
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replaced the original 3 fuse box with this blade setup. Anything on the white wires (bottom row) is ignition controlled. anything on the brown wires (top row) is direct from the battery. Gives better protection for some circuits but more useful in that it doesn't knock out half the car when one fuse pops.
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Don't ever believe anyone who is trying to sell a rust free range rover door. who ever assembled them gave the inner surfaces the barest waft of primer. In many places there is just bare steel. The door is made up on a single steel pressing for the inner shell, then there is a set of steel reinforcement plates that fit inside the shell and lastly and nice ally / birmabrite door skin. Lots of opportunities for rot and electrolytic corrosion.

Here I am cutting out the ribs on the catch / handle edge of a largely clean door, treating the rust and then will weld in flat steel to give it the appearance of an early door shell.
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And the same door this is the hinge edge, surprisingly intact. few exploratory drill holes found only a couple of areas that needed help. To fix these things properly needs the skin to be removed, this then becomes sacrificial and while new skins are available they are £400+VAT each, softly slowly catchee monkey approach here.
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Had a call 9pm on a saturday night that the p38 needed shifting before 10am sunday morning. cheers for that. anyway lobbed some air in the tyres and managed to drag it around the corner.
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For them interested I did a quick review of what I bought -

Clearing the decks for a brake line fit
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new stainless exhaust don't fit.
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drivers side downpipe is way too close to the crossmember
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passenger side is a mile out
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figured the solution out last week while waiting for the manufacturer to provide any customer service. Gearbox mounts on these range rovers used to be dead easy when there was only one engine/ gearbox configuration. Alas retrofitting a 5 speed box from a diesel engined RR has turned out to be somewhat of a balls ache. Half the mounts that I have are featured in no parts catalogue. Specialists are scratching their heads and finally I figured out that I probably need a 3.5 LT77/BW 5speed mount that would have been fitted in early 1989 and just before the 3.9 came out. The VM gearbox mount is too low and allows the tail of the gearbox to sit nearly 2" lower than the 3.5 v8 5speed/borg warner transferbox set up, as the exhaust on these non cat setups runs between bellhousing and crossmember.

Then I managed to establish that the almost unobtanium mount was used on the 3.9 4 speed auto and borg warner setup. Disco 1 would appear to be different. Gaaaaaaaah

Part 2 coming up
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by richardthestag »

part 2

Painting anything in my workshop is flippin hard work. the environment is hardly sterile nor temperature controlled. I work opposite the dustiest non-recycling operation ever. This means that when I paint I need to really wait for each coat to go off - i.e. 24h before flatting back the dust and shite and giving a 2nd coat, repeating and then a 3rd coat.

This is despite me hosing down the floor etc etc etc. I can sweep a couple of builders buckets of dust and without fail it will need doing again next day.

The process of using these 2k systems leaves a mist of paint in the air, this gets caught on the dust particles and then comes down and lands on the panel. I am looking at an extractor to make my live a little easier but then I get bogged down in a world of filters.

Long and laborious

Anyway here I am using dynamat - nice acoustic self adhesive matting that keeps the drumming right down.
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These rear wiper units regardless of whether they are lucas or shitty valeo always seem to seize up through lack of use. The issue is always down to the shaft that goes from the gearbox and through to the wiper arm. Figured out how to easily get them working again.
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Finally accepted that I was not going to find a half decent drivers door and so set about remaking the hinge edge of the door shell. I am using the brand new door skin as a reference point.
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With repairs to the passenger door complete and the rear wing fitted to its original holes I set about shimming the door up. This needs deck and front wing to be in place. Once done it can come apart again for shut faces to be painted.
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Nice cloud burst and I stepped out to find Builder Andy's yard next door a bit flooded, this was it 30 mins later. The water was up to the top of the tracks and perilously close to the platform that my workshop sits on.
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Windscreen chap turned up with a new screen that was miles out. look at how it clatters against the roof rail. I am worried that it is the body frame but a spare heated screen that I have fits into the hole neatly. God knows what this screen was from.

Also see my nice new kunifer custom built brake lines in place
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Blue RR MoT is about to expire and needs welding. rather than bodge it through another MoT I have parked it up for a couple of months and acquired my mates L200 for ferrying shite around in the meantime.

#2 son approves
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Picking out the headlining fabric colour from a sample sheet that Martrim sent me.
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Getting the rear seat anchors that bolt up to the inside of the rear inner wings prepped for a nice dusting of Palomino paint
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Part 3 on the way
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by richardthestag »

Part 3

Doddering onwards through acres of uos body panels with a World of existing repaints and filled sections has taken me an age. This is 1 month after I started. Front wings birmabrite rather than plastic and the rebuilt drivers door; prepped, primed, flatted, filled, flatted, primed, flatted, filled, flatted, primed and ready for more primer before paint.
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Drivers side rear wing had been repainted twice already and also had some badly repaired accident damage below the fuel filler. The filler had cracked and in many places had been applied direct to the bare birmabrite. This had then lifted. The opnly way forwards was to prep the solid areas back to remove all scratches and gouges. Then remove all filler from the damaged area, this needs to be done slowly as birmabrite has a very low melt point and I do not wish to further damage the panel. The dents which had been crudely hammered out had to be addressed, I could see the original line of damage and feel that Stevie Wonder may have been involved in the repair. Once I was done the panel went to primer and then filler before flatting and priming again. Ended up with 1mm skim of filler over the area whereas before it was nearly 1cm.

This is the final coat on the panel. it will still need some light 1500 grade cutting before a machine polish
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Bled the brakes through, only one loose union (stupid boy) and they are sorted. BIGGRED rebuilt calipers, new Goodrich aero hoses, new master cylinder on an old servo and new pipework throughout.

New windscreen arrived and went in with only a minor issue that the bulkhead was about 1mm too high. loosened the 4 bolts on each side that secure the a post to the bulkhead and it all popped in.

Did mean that I had to reshim the passenger door though! we live and learn
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drivers side rear wing in place and ready for the door alignment process
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One more time to assemble the panels and confirm gaps and alignment
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that'll do pig
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Then started the process of sanding off the lacquer and most recent coat of paint from the bonnet. the white stuff appears to be a 2k primer. Nice and tough so opted to leave this rather than dig any further. the skin from these bonnets is pressed from a single sheet of steel. Must be a press of many 100s of tonnes. There is undoubtedly some factory prep to get the panel looking half decent and I will leave this all in place. The plan is to seal this in using a 2k acrylic primer and then hand the panel over to Steve the Body for top coat.
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Earlier in the build I found out that the body to chassis height was different depending on whether the car was efi. I believe that the raised height happened in 1986 when the 3.5EFI his production and the fuel lines etc moved to the top of the chassis rails. Here are two mount plates that sit under the gearbox cover and rest on the chassis supporting the front inner corner of the front seat box. As luck would have it :roll: I have one of each
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I am also missing the knob off this unobtainium aux light control. Switch works just fine. Hoping to find a knob... fnarr
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Part 4 on the way
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by richardthestag »

Part 4 and the last for now

One of the nicer things about my workshop is the 1/2 mile walk across fields to get there from home.
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drivers door skin had some gouges etc that I hadn't spotted until the first coat of primer went on, these have now been corrected and the last coat of primer is in place
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Steve the body did a nice job of the bonnet. Happy with that.
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Topcoat applied to the door, still some dust in the paint but way less due to the panel being painted verical. more risk of runs, less polishing. Oh and this was when the temp was into the 30s. Difficult painting stupidly decided to use a slower activator rather than paint at night. had to relearn the process and set up the gun for this. not be doing that again!
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Tailgate also seen the last topcoat of paint. No lacquer on this, it is just a solid base coat in 2k paint. Finish is straight from the gun but still needs 1500 and polisher
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Big fit out gets back on track now that less painting means that I have to vacate the workshop for hours on end each time I paint something
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All fitted out, started the cutting process which again will be a day of my life. I am in no hurry to paint another car!
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Tailgate all fitted and aligned.
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The build process continues.

Expecting the gearbox mount today and should be able to fit exhaust and start the engine up. However dad had some medical issues and is having a PaceMaker fitted in Exeter. I need to be at his house for 100 reasons that I am still working out.

The fun continues
"The Dark Wob. You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious."
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by paulplom »

Great stuff. Thanks.
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Re: Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

Post by LynehamHerc »

This Steve the Body, is he a relation of Elle?

P.s. I hope things go ok with your dad.
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