1966 Plymouth Fury 3

[PhilA]

It'll be interesting to see what your choice is. I don't really need one as my old Sealey is great but I want one. Mine isn't the most portable of things.

The cheapest model with the most features, in the $350 range, which is on hold because I need to spend a bit on the house and truck first.

[PhilA]

That's what I've got my eye on.

[paulplom]

That's cheap enough. It's a good warranty through amazon. I've sent stuff back before, they pay for the postage label and the money's in your account as soon as it arrives.
The tig torch is extra. Did you notice?

[PhilA]

That's cheap enough. It's a good warranty through amazon. I've sent stuff back before, they pay for the postage label and the money's in your account as soon as it arrives.
The tig torch is extra. Did you notice?

Yes, and that's not a problem- wasn't planning on using it for tig initially anyway.
Second largest expense after that will be getting a bottle of gas.

Phil

[DodgeRover]

Is the garage power the same as the supply in the UK then Phil?

Having a welder and being able to use it rather than filler will put you leagues ahead!

[Scruffy Bodger]

That's cheap enough. It's a good warranty through amazon. I've sent stuff back before, they pay for the postage label and the money's in your account as soon as it arrives.
The tig torch is extra. Did you notice?

Yes, and that's not a problem- wasn't planning on using it for tig initially anyway.
Second largest expense after that will be getting a bottle of gas.

Phil

I take it the fire extinguisher route isn't viable then for a cost effective solution?

[PhilA]

Is the garage power the same as the supply in the UK then Phil?

Having a welder and being able to use it rather than filler will put you leagues ahead!

Sort of.

The transformer that feeds this (and a few of my neighbors) is wound center tap:

-110 ____mmmm__[N]__mmmm____ +110

N is Neutral, and is also connected to earth. I getboth sides of the 110, the + and the - half-phases.
Connect N to 110, get 110.
Connect 110 to 110 get 220.

Standard arrangement in most places in the USA these days. Oven, tumble dryer, air conditioning etc run off 220 to reduce current load and improve power factor, all other household appliances and outlets are 110 because it is significantly safer than 220 in terms of electrocution (which is why building sites there are all 110).

220V, 30A is fairly common for a "big" household outlet.

Phil

[PhilA]

I take it the fire extinguisher route isn't viable then for a cost effective solution?

Enough people do welding around here (shipyard work mostly) they it's about the same price.

[PhilA]

20210515_214803.jpg (268.07 KiB) Viewed 1825 times

I need to get into the corners of the window aperture. Only way to do that right is to remove the glass. So, I bought a trim removal tool (which proved to be fairly useless) and took the trim off. I then started hacking away at the old screen rubber (new rubber available $78 so the old crispy rubber was deemed surplus and because it was sealed in with goop, the only way to pull it out without risking breaking the glass is to remove the seal.

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To my surprise, I managed to remove it intact.

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Cleaned the corner up on this side. Significantly better than I thought it would be- just needs a little new metal letting in. I think the other side gonna be a whole lot worse.

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One thing to smile about- the trim clips are screwed in. The clips had rusted away but the screws in the bottom corner both undid, two for two.

Phil

[DodgeRover]

The owner of a scrap yard showed me that trick years ago when I needed a screen out of something, as long as you can get a new rubber all is good