1956 Chevrolet 210

[Hooli]

Sorry, nailed.

No more nails I'd bet, most lack the skill to use a hammer.

[AMCrebel]

Are the body cuts you would need absolutely unique to that one year and model?

If the body mounts are a bit iffy you are probably right - in my mind it wouldn't be the end of the world to level it and get the gaps correct again though if you had the time and space.

Pity this isn't AS where people would throw money at you to buy the most expensive part worn tyres you could find for it!

Unfortunately the rear window section is unique to the model although I think 57 would fit - they only made the 4 door hardtop in 56 and 57 - no 55s (except one I saw a pic of that a bloke made from 56 parts.

On my travels over the years chasing down parts I came across a 57 4door hardtop a bloke had in his garden - the roof was fastened to the rear with a length of Dexion on either side so it was worse than mine in a way. That one was a curiosity in that it was a 57 with a 56 dash. For the RHD 57s they didn't use the 57 dash - just kept the 56 one.

http://www.americantorque.com/page/0/3448/

The rear wheel arches and doors are unique to the models and year, but the floor and mountings are the same for 56 and 57.

Real Deal Steel in the US sells a new floor complete - but I'd need the outer sills as well (Which they now do) but that wouldn't solve my rear window problems.

Also flip knows what the shipping would be like for such a big lump of steel and the taxman would want his cut - the floor is over 2k (Dollars)

https://realdealsteel.com/i-20145111-19 ... floor.html

They also sell a complete new body - in quite a few styles but not mine.

They also have some repair sections for another rotten area on mine -

https://realdealsteel.com/i-20144886-19 ... -pair.html

[AMCrebel]

Decided to have hack at some of this today - the smell of wob was strong

Someone's welded stuff here before - probably many times

IMG_1980.JPG (572.3 KiB) Viewed 3585 times

I've been battling the set screws for the door striker - finally beat the top one by several sucessive sized drills and an easy-out thing

IMG_1979.JPG (587.24 KiB) Viewed 3585 times

Knocked a big chunk of wob and newspaper out of here where the sill meets the front of the rear wheel arch

IMG_1977.JPG (431.73 KiB) Viewed 3585 times

Various chunks of wob - I suspect from more than one go here

IMG_1976.JPG (541.79 KiB) Viewed 3585 times

Pulling off a non-standard plate over the sill on the bottom of the door jamb revealed extremely crusty inner sill.

IMG_1974.JPG (489.53 KiB) Viewed 3585 times

[Eddie Honda]

I've been battling the set screws for the door striker - finally beat the top one by several sucessive sized drills and an easy-out thing

First line of attack on these is a hand impact driver with a decent bit.

[Hooli]

That's wobtastic! clever how they used little bits of rusty metal to join the lumps of wob together.

[AMCrebel]

I've been battling the set screws for the door striker - finally beat the top one by several sucessive sized drills and an easy-out thing

First line of attack on these is a hand impact driver with a decent bit.

Yeah tried that - a few times over the 20 years Was going to have a go with the windy gun but I can't find the fucker.

[PhilA]

Yup. Looks like my sills. Glad to see GM managed to continue incorporating the same rust traps year after year.

[AMCrebel]

Had a read of the workshop manual last night and it seems there is quite a lot of adjustment that can be made to the doors which is encouraging although not likely to be relevant until there is anything there for them to interact with.

[DodgeRover]

Have you had a chance to play with the metal working equipment you bought to fix this? Just doing that might give you a boost to make bits piece by piece?

[AMCrebel]

I haven't (it's still in the box) but that is a good shout