1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
There are sludge traps in an A Series crankshaft...
and lots of more recent engines.
Not a user serviceable item.
and lots of more recent engines.
Not a user serviceable item.
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
The blocked oil filter light was a feature of BMC cars for a few years. Minors had it for a while and then the feature was dropped.
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
Probably was ok back in the 1930s when the Triumph twin was designed, I expect with bearing & oil technology back then the engine would be apart often enough to make it a service item.
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
All the little honda's 100/125/185/200 etc used the centrifugal filter arrangement and short service intervals. My mate used to service his CB250RS every 1500 or 2000 miles which was every other week when he commuted on it! Think it was showing about 50,000 miles when he sold it and it was still a quiet engine - which considering the cam runs direct in the alloy head and reputation they had goes to show what regular servicing does
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
Before I go out again for an evening of tinkering, I better give an update from yesterday.
Tested the vacuum on the distributor. Through the brittle PVC tube it's holding no vacuum. Directly on the screw fitting moves the dizzy plate but doesn't hold a vacuum. I'll replace the pipe fitting to the advance so it'll do something. Good enough for now.
Finished cleaning up the carb spacer and mounts.
Fitted the carb back on.
Fitted a fuel filter.
Then turned the ignition on to pressurise the fuel system.
Oh. Leaking from the jet to float bowl. I thought I got it in properly but obviously didn't. Wish I put fluids in it before I put it together. Going to be a bit of a pain to replace. May have to take the carb off to make it easier.
Replaced the accelerator cable. Morris Minor is an identical replacement, so cheap and easy part to get hold of.
Old one was a bit rusty at the exposed area by the pedal.
Next up was the choke cable. I bought a Mini one thinking it'll be the same. It's not, the Mini is much shorter. Thankfully I had another choke cable in my box of crap. Not sure what it was off - I suspect from the box or bits from the Purple 1100.
The old one was stuck and jammed out.
To replace it I removed the top panel to get better access. Four screws and then it just pulled off.
The nut was easily accessible.
I removed the ignition switch to get access in for my spanner.
Tried the Mini one and realised the mounting washer was far too small. So used the other one I had. It fitted but didn't have the nice chrome bit showing. Oh well, at least it works now.
Clear why the old one didn't work.
Finally decided to fix the indicator stalk light. For those that don't know, these era Austins had the flashing indicator on the end of the stalks. At some point someone snapped off the end cover and bits got stuck in the end. The replacement cap someone fitted didn't stay on without falling off.
After a lot of scraping with a screwdriver on the thread, I cleaned out most of the old plastic. Now the cap fits on better. Not perfect but at least it doesn't fall off.
Tested the vacuum on the distributor. Through the brittle PVC tube it's holding no vacuum. Directly on the screw fitting moves the dizzy plate but doesn't hold a vacuum. I'll replace the pipe fitting to the advance so it'll do something. Good enough for now.
Finished cleaning up the carb spacer and mounts.
Fitted the carb back on.
Fitted a fuel filter.
Then turned the ignition on to pressurise the fuel system.
Oh. Leaking from the jet to float bowl. I thought I got it in properly but obviously didn't. Wish I put fluids in it before I put it together. Going to be a bit of a pain to replace. May have to take the carb off to make it easier.
Replaced the accelerator cable. Morris Minor is an identical replacement, so cheap and easy part to get hold of.
Old one was a bit rusty at the exposed area by the pedal.
Next up was the choke cable. I bought a Mini one thinking it'll be the same. It's not, the Mini is much shorter. Thankfully I had another choke cable in my box of crap. Not sure what it was off - I suspect from the box or bits from the Purple 1100.
The old one was stuck and jammed out.
To replace it I removed the top panel to get better access. Four screws and then it just pulled off.
The nut was easily accessible.
I removed the ignition switch to get access in for my spanner.
Tried the Mini one and realised the mounting washer was far too small. So used the other one I had. It fitted but didn't have the nice chrome bit showing. Oh well, at least it works now.
Clear why the old one didn't work.
Finally decided to fix the indicator stalk light. For those that don't know, these era Austins had the flashing indicator on the end of the stalks. At some point someone snapped off the end cover and bits got stuck in the end. The replacement cap someone fitted didn't stay on without falling off.
After a lot of scraping with a screwdriver on the thread, I cleaned out most of the old plastic. Now the cap fits on better. Not perfect but at least it doesn't fall off.
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
Green, cool. My Standard has an identical looking stalk apart from it has a white end.
Pointless comment really,but I've nothing else to add.
Pointless comment really,but I've nothing else to add.
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
It appeared in Autumn 1964. You can tell on Minis and Minors with the big speedo: previously there were three dash light. Red ignition, blue main beam, amber oil pressure. After that there were red and blue plus two orange lights, one for oil pressure, one for blocked filter. Minis and Minors continued with the two amber lights long after the oil filter sensor was dropped.fried onions wrote: ↑Tue Jun 02, 2020 7:55 pm The blocked oil filter light was a feature of BMC cars for a few years. Minors had it for a while and then the feature was dropped.
This 1100 has two amber lights.
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
The jet just pulled out without too much force.
I cut down some of the plastic pipe and put the ferrel back in. With a new washer it appeared to be water tight
Put it all back on the car and turned the ignition back on. Thankfully it's stopped leaking now and holds pressure.
This is where having Moss is really useful. Without them locally I'd had to spend a couple of quid postage for a 50 pence rubber washer. Or bodged my own up.
Next up was replacing the thermostat. But didn't because this is an A-Series.
Completely welded onto the studs again. Any suggestions on how best to get this off?
Last one I resorted to violence and smashed the housing into pieces before it came off. I'd like to avoid that this time if I can.
Then started on the heater valve by removing and cleaning off the gasket. This old one leaks out the end. I believe TADIS and the crap design is followed through onto modern ones and they leak in time too. Also looks a really shonky design. Not sure if this one has been repaired in the past with bits of old Mechano.
I cut down some of the plastic pipe and put the ferrel back in. With a new washer it appeared to be water tight
Put it all back on the car and turned the ignition back on. Thankfully it's stopped leaking now and holds pressure.
This is where having Moss is really useful. Without them locally I'd had to spend a couple of quid postage for a 50 pence rubber washer. Or bodged my own up.
Next up was replacing the thermostat. But didn't because this is an A-Series.
Completely welded onto the studs again. Any suggestions on how best to get this off?
Last one I resorted to violence and smashed the housing into pieces before it came off. I'd like to avoid that this time if I can.
Then started on the heater valve by removing and cleaning off the gasket. This old one leaks out the end. I believe TADIS and the crap design is followed through onto modern ones and they leak in time too. Also looks a really shonky design. Not sure if this one has been repaired in the past with bits of old Mechano.
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
What did you hit the last one with? I'd spray it liberally, repeatedly with some sort of thin penetrant and leave it for a decent amount of time and then thump it about with a decent piece of wood and a heavy/lump hammer. Hit it at the base in a clockwise then counter clockwise motion until it starts to move as that'll be the strongest bit.
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Re: 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2)
The housings are cheap and easy to obtain I would cut it off being very careful of the studs.
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