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Ben
Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
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BenHar
- Banned Grinch!
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Eddie Honda
- Rainman The Google Fu Master
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
Pugrot Shitroen speak for NLA e.g. No Further Production.
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Eddie Honda
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
MOAR 1996 CITROEN SYNERGIE
Made some notes after that trip to buy some MOAR stuff.
Got some Taiwanese replacement indicator units as one would look new and the other would probably fall apart if I moved it again.
As expected the lens of the old offside one was brittle and fell apart, so in with the new.
Fuck it, might as deal with that half-fucked but working number plate light too.
Slightly revised part that goes in the same size hole. Good job I got a pair - wouldn't be able to sleep at night.
Front discs were looking a bit rough after 3+ years sitting.
Fortunately, in preparation, I bagged a slightly storage soiled genuine pair NOS, with a set of Valeo pads for £50 delivered.
Pistons and sliders were nice and free.
Old pads had plenty of meat left, but the wear wires had burnt though on the offside.
Had a look at the nearside door controls again. Generally opening from the inside, but a bit randomly from the outside.
Decided to find a new clip for the rod that is cable tied. Off to the stealer time.
Made some notes after that trip to buy some MOAR stuff.
Got some Taiwanese replacement indicator units as one would look new and the other would probably fall apart if I moved it again.
- c1_20230826_07153276.jpeg (463.43 KiB) Viewed 613 times
As expected the lens of the old offside one was brittle and fell apart, so in with the new.
- c1_20230826_07153504.jpeg (443.75 KiB) Viewed 613 times
Fuck it, might as deal with that half-fucked but working number plate light too.
- c1_20230826_07144999.jpeg (293.24 KiB) Viewed 613 times
Slightly revised part that goes in the same size hole. Good job I got a pair - wouldn't be able to sleep at night.
- c1_20230826_07144845.jpeg (324.41 KiB) Viewed 613 times
Front discs were looking a bit rough after 3+ years sitting.
- c1_20230826_07150013.jpeg (712.29 KiB) Viewed 613 times
- c1_20230826_07150859.jpeg (787.43 KiB) Viewed 613 times
Fortunately, in preparation, I bagged a slightly storage soiled genuine pair NOS, with a set of Valeo pads for £50 delivered.
- c1_20230826_07145223.jpeg (517.97 KiB) Viewed 613 times
Pistons and sliders were nice and free.
- c1_20230826_07151426.jpeg (582.08 KiB) Viewed 613 times
Old pads had plenty of meat left, but the wear wires had burnt though on the offside.
- c1_20230826_07145479.jpeg (1.13 MiB) Viewed 613 times
Had a look at the nearside door controls again. Generally opening from the inside, but a bit randomly from the outside.
- c1_20230826_07152075.jpeg (431.5 KiB) Viewed 613 times
Decided to find a new clip for the rod that is cable tied. Off to the stealer time.
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Eddie Honda
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
YOU JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH 1996 CITROEN SYNERGIE
Clips were available and there were just 7 in Luton where they supply all the dealers. 14p each. I'll buy the country's stock please. 3pm next day I get a call, pop down and tap the phone for £1.01.
Can't get it to fit even after straightening the rod. Something else must be fucked. Remove the exterior handle. Despite putting plenty of grease on the socket due to pissing about a few times, I managed to drop the nut.
Eventually get my fingers to it because I couldn't find my magnet.
When doing the discs I spot the nearside bottom ball joint cover is perished.
Yup, that's fucked.
A few Ebay taps and order 4 with clips for £8.80 delivered (3 spare. You can never have enough spares)
Drop link bushes either side don't look too clever either. I suppose I better order a pair from the shitebags on the industrial estate.
Console myself with the fact this track rod end boot looks reasonable.
Spunk another £40 on some shiny new bits.
Wrestle with a wishbone and strut to get to the ball joint. Eventually get it out after removing the strut from the hub.
At least with that out of the way (and despite my best efforts of keep the driveshaft in, I did leak some oil onto the drive
) I was able to get the ugga dugger onto the anti roll bar nut - which has a 20mm hex nut on it - French bastards! I've sockets in that size, but no spanners. Having said that, I don't think there's room to do it without moving the hub out of the way.
In putting that lot back together I managed to cross-thread the fucking ball joint/ hub pinch bolt. Bollocks.
Oh, for FUCK SAKE! Will you give it a rest you ungrateful bastard...
That'll be for next time.
In the meantime wondering if there's a cover / liner meant to be here?
Subframe / engine cradle appears ok - for now.
Clips were available and there were just 7 in Luton where they supply all the dealers. 14p each. I'll buy the country's stock please. 3pm next day I get a call, pop down and tap the phone for £1.01.
- c1_20230826_07152273~2.jpeg (317.85 KiB) Viewed 611 times
Can't get it to fit even after straightening the rod. Something else must be fucked. Remove the exterior handle. Despite putting plenty of grease on the socket due to pissing about a few times, I managed to drop the nut.
- c1_20230826_07153709.jpeg (383.09 KiB) Viewed 611 times
Eventually get my fingers to it because I couldn't find my magnet.
When doing the discs I spot the nearside bottom ball joint cover is perished.
- c1_20230826_07151260.jpeg (419.3 KiB) Viewed 611 times
Yup, that's fucked.
- c1_20230826_07151920.jpeg (407.86 KiB) Viewed 611 times
A few Ebay taps and order 4 with clips for £8.80 delivered (3 spare. You can never have enough spares)
- c1_20230826_07144779.jpeg (257.66 KiB) Viewed 611 times
Drop link bushes either side don't look too clever either. I suppose I better order a pair from the shitebags on the industrial estate.
- c1_20230826_07145130.jpeg (335.2 KiB) Viewed 611 times
Console myself with the fact this track rod end boot looks reasonable.
- c1_20230826_07150614.jpeg (323.06 KiB) Viewed 611 times
Spunk another £40 on some shiny new bits.
- c1_20230826_07144578.jpeg (445.45 KiB) Viewed 611 times
Wrestle with a wishbone and strut to get to the ball joint. Eventually get it out after removing the strut from the hub.
- c1_20230826_07144262.jpeg (469.17 KiB) Viewed 611 times
At least with that out of the way (and despite my best efforts of keep the driveshaft in, I did leak some oil onto the drive
) I was able to get the ugga dugger onto the anti roll bar nut - which has a 20mm hex nut on it - French bastards! I've sockets in that size, but no spanners. Having said that, I don't think there's room to do it without moving the hub out of the way.- c1_20230826_07144025.jpeg (437.07 KiB) Viewed 611 times
In putting that lot back together I managed to cross-thread the fucking ball joint/ hub pinch bolt. Bollocks.
Oh, for FUCK SAKE! Will you give it a rest you ungrateful bastard...
- c1_20230826_07144472.jpeg (334.45 KiB) Viewed 611 times
That'll be for next time.
In the meantime wondering if there's a cover / liner meant to be here?
- c1_20230826_07150395.jpeg (482.56 KiB) Viewed 611 times
Subframe / engine cradle appears ok - for now.
- c1_20230826_07151715.jpeg (466.55 KiB) Viewed 611 times
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Eddie Honda
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
1996 CITROEN SYNERGIE LAST JOB
The door issue was bugging me, so got up early doors on Saturday morning (our last day) and headed over to the house before breakfast.
In order to remove the control rod to the lock at the back edge of the door, the lock needs to come out. Three screws on the trailing edge and one screw on the inside panel. Then to extract it, a 10mm nut to remove the window guide.
Tied some string to the lever and put it back in so I could lock it. Then had to remove the trim on the good door and do the same. I wanted to check if the rods were the same because the part numbers are, so it's not handed.
Well that nearside one has been cut short, so I'll have to find some 3mm galvanized rod and bend a copy up of the good one.
Something might be fucked at the lock end as the thing was sort of opening in its shorter state with the cable tie.
The door issue was bugging me, so got up early doors on Saturday morning (our last day) and headed over to the house before breakfast.
In order to remove the control rod to the lock at the back edge of the door, the lock needs to come out. Three screws on the trailing edge and one screw on the inside panel. Then to extract it, a 10mm nut to remove the window guide.
Tied some string to the lever and put it back in so I could lock it. Then had to remove the trim on the good door and do the same. I wanted to check if the rods were the same because the part numbers are, so it's not handed.
- IMG_20230828_124257_PFsHlSqm6g.jpeg (77.19 KiB) Viewed 597 times
- IMG_20230828_124310_GWROQ42U0a.jpeg (550.05 KiB) Viewed 597 times
Well that nearside one has been cut short, so I'll have to find some 3mm galvanized rod and bend a copy up of the good one.
Something might be fucked at the lock end as the thing was sort of opening in its shorter state with the cable tie.
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Eddie Honda
- Rainman The Google Fu Master
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
1996 CITROEN SYNERGIE COLOMBO TIME
Just one last thing...
Battery strap was missing when bought and had a ratchet strap round it. Only the top plate and nuts are missing, but some of the eBay scrap is overpriced, so bought a universal* one.
Well the rods are fuck all use as they are M8, but that's not a big problem so had to trot off to Screwfix to get some M6 wing nuts (yeah they come in packs of 8 more than I need)
You can also see that whilst it fits over the top, the ends don't catch the edges of the battery.
I'll find the proper one in due course.
Just one last thing...
Battery strap was missing when bought and had a ratchet strap round it. Only the top plate and nuts are missing, but some of the eBay scrap is overpriced, so bought a universal* one.
Well the rods are fuck all use as they are M8, but that's not a big problem so had to trot off to Screwfix to get some M6 wing nuts (yeah they come in packs of 8 more than I need)
- c1_20230826_07152993.jpeg (567.64 KiB) Viewed 595 times
You can also see that whilst it fits over the top, the ends don't catch the edges of the battery.
- c1_20230826_07152767.jpeg (474.11 KiB) Viewed 595 times
I'll find the proper one in due course.
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Eddie Honda
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
RIALTO UPDATE - NO I HAVEN'T FORGOTTEN ABOUT IT
Had a five minute look underneath it on Saturday evening and decided: couldn't be bothered.
Roll on lunchtime today and went back under in the drizzle.
Handbrake mounting plate looks a bit rusty
Rear gearbox mounting plate looks a bit rusty
Clutch return spring, arm and cable looks a bit rusty
Brake pipe and rear shock looks a bit rusty
Took the propshaft off that looks a bit rusty
Will clean it up and do something with the sliding part that looks a bit rusty
Spring bush seen better days and the rear leaf spring looks a bit rusty
Will drop the engine and box out and refit the head on the bench.
Had a five minute look underneath it on Saturday evening and decided: couldn't be bothered.
Roll on lunchtime today and went back under in the drizzle.
Handbrake mounting plate looks a bit rusty
- IMG_20230911_122856_Azt8Yx2h53.jpeg (444.36 KiB) Viewed 522 times
Rear gearbox mounting plate looks a bit rusty
- IMG_20230911_122911_1jDOOcpn6Q.jpeg (500.16 KiB) Viewed 522 times
Clutch return spring, arm and cable looks a bit rusty
- IMG_20230911_122919_vtATwnvR2X.jpeg (384.49 KiB) Viewed 522 times
Brake pipe and rear shock looks a bit rusty
- IMG_20230911_122951_6dw6bPvt6D.jpeg (398.47 KiB) Viewed 522 times
Took the propshaft off that looks a bit rusty
- IMG_20230911_125406_WD8swNkU83.jpeg (730.61 KiB) Viewed 522 times
Will clean it up and do something with the sliding part that looks a bit rusty
- IMG_20230911_125630_5eobnPnc9C.jpeg (533.67 KiB) Viewed 522 times
Spring bush seen better days and the rear leaf spring looks a bit rusty
- IMG_20230911_122957_fseFgjXw1i.jpeg (414.03 KiB) Viewed 522 times
Will drop the engine and box out and refit the head on the bench.
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Eddie Honda
- Rainman The Google Fu Master
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
REALTO UPDATE - IT MORE FUCKED THAN I REMEMBER
Time to get this engine out.
First take the starter motor off as this later style pre-engaged motor gets in the way a bit.
Straightforward enough
Make sure the wires are off that side (oil pressure switch / starter / solenoid / temp sender) and the fuel pipes.
Then undo the earths onto the engine timing chain cover that some clown obviously didn't do before and just chopped them.
Shear off the end of the clutch cable so resort to cutting it off. I managed to salvage the adjuster nut.
Undo the three bolts that hold the gearbox mounting plate. Top two weren't too bad, but the bottom one was an arse. Nut appears to be a Binx type and the bolt head had rusted down so a 12mm spanner was used.
Had to dig out the crane as I couldn't be arsed with it falling off a jack. It's not that heavy sans head, but using the crane made the lowering it to the ground much more controllable.
Lowered it initially onto blocks of wood, but finally onto the white dunnage bag so I could slide it sideways. Had to jack it up a touch as even at full height on the stands. Stands at full extension put the chassis at 41cm (16") off the ground. It'll need to be higher again for going back in.
Got the other (not in pic) Honda Jr to help me lift this onto the bogie as I'd already put the engine crane back in the shed...
The engine unstuck easily itself once I got my 9/16" AF spanner on the crank nut. There's a missing bolt at the top of the belhousing which is par for the course.
Might as well split it while it's there and have a peep inside. Ah, an LuK clutch. Not one of my favoured Laycocks, but at least it isn't an crappy old Borg & Beck coil spring.
Hmmm, that's fucked. Release bearing is shot and front oil seal will want doing too. Ah well.
Time to get this engine out.
First take the starter motor off as this later style pre-engaged motor gets in the way a bit.
- c1_20230923_22121904.jpeg (573.8 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Straightforward enough
- c1_20230923_22121496.jpeg (659.7 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Make sure the wires are off that side (oil pressure switch / starter / solenoid / temp sender) and the fuel pipes.
- c1_20230923_22121205.jpeg (587.91 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Then undo the earths onto the engine timing chain cover that some clown obviously didn't do before and just chopped them.
- c1_20230923_22120952.jpeg (533.82 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Shear off the end of the clutch cable so resort to cutting it off. I managed to salvage the adjuster nut.
- c1_20230923_22120485.jpeg (810.25 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Undo the three bolts that hold the gearbox mounting plate. Top two weren't too bad, but the bottom one was an arse. Nut appears to be a Binx type and the bolt head had rusted down so a 12mm spanner was used.
- c1_20230923_22120274.jpeg (435.86 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Had to dig out the crane as I couldn't be arsed with it falling off a jack. It's not that heavy sans head, but using the crane made the lowering it to the ground much more controllable.
- c1_20230923_22115838.jpeg (781.14 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Lowered it initially onto blocks of wood, but finally onto the white dunnage bag so I could slide it sideways. Had to jack it up a touch as even at full height on the stands. Stands at full extension put the chassis at 41cm (16") off the ground. It'll need to be higher again for going back in.
- c1_20230923_22115463.jpeg (709.78 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Got the other (not in pic) Honda Jr to help me lift this onto the bogie as I'd already put the engine crane back in the shed...
- c1_20230923_22115057.jpeg (660.58 KiB) Viewed 443 times
The engine unstuck easily itself once I got my 9/16" AF spanner on the crank nut. There's a missing bolt at the top of the belhousing which is par for the course.
- c1_20230923_22114740.jpeg (538.58 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Might as well split it while it's there and have a peep inside. Ah, an LuK clutch. Not one of my favoured Laycocks, but at least it isn't an crappy old Borg & Beck coil spring.
- c1_20230923_22114503.jpeg (476.35 KiB) Viewed 443 times
Hmmm, that's fucked. Release bearing is shot and front oil seal will want doing too. Ah well.
- c1_20230923_22114052.jpeg (860.74 KiB) Viewed 443 times
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LynehamHerc
- Boomer, gammon, senile old fart and Eurosmasher!
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
The people without kids miss out on how useful they can be.
Our eldest has just helped me trim (butcher) some apple and other trees and clear a blocked gutter, which was likely to leak onto my store of gold bars.
I'm not certain that I can cope with this level of excitement much longer though.
Our eldest has just helped me trim (butcher) some apple and other trees and clear a blocked gutter, which was likely to leak onto my store of gold bars.
I'm not certain that I can cope with this level of excitement much longer though.
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Eddie Honda
- Rainman The Google Fu Master
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Re: Eddie Honda's wheels of steel (and occasionally alloy)
NOT MY JIZZ - 2010 JIZZ i-Shit
Was asked by a workmate if my Jizz was and auto and if I knew anything about them... so he goes on to explain the problem he's having with his wife's one.
Turns out it's a 2010 i-Shit. In a moment of madness, Honda decided to junk a perfectly serviceable CVT and fit an AMT (aka robo-manual) and such is the shitness, it was a Europe only thing and lasted about a year or two before they came back with a CVT.
He had the codes read, but the bloke that read the codes suggested getting someone with a better scanner that could do the manufacturer's sort of thing. So I offer to "take a look" and dig out my knock-off Honda HIM interface and ancient Asus netbook, and test it on my car.
First problem is that the HDS software isn't talking to my car. So after messing around for ages after work on Sunday, I get it sorted and achieve a full scan of the yellow Jizz. It has a few stored codes which I'll deal with another day.
I pop round to scan this i-Shit on Monday on my break, this sheds some light on the issue. During this time, other garages / gearbox specialists contacted about fixing this car run a mile. Even the main stealer can't plug it in for a diagnostic for 3 weeks. Lazy workshy cunts the lot of them.
The main code of note is 163-3 (aka P0810) which points to a clutch actuator not working/not working properly.
So I express my preference for the car to be under cover for spannering and if it could be moved 30k so weather wouldn't be an issue. This involves another workmate and rapidly goes pear-shaped. Thursday night I'm told the lights are not working, and then Friday morning I'm told two of the wheel bearings are knackered.
As the weather was fine yesterday I said I'd come over on the bike. Haven't used it in over a month, so yeah, battery is flat. Stick that on for an hour and have something for lunch and load up the toolbox on the bike. Do my obligatory run down the road and get it bumped 2nd go and off I go.
Meet trailer workmate at the car on the street and set to work.
First job is battery out, then remove the battery tray. Next is unbolt the tiny reservoir attached to the front panel.
Two bolts out holding the slave cylinder.
Air filter out to get at the wiring underneath it. Unplug some wiring. Trying to slide these connectors off from their hanging tabs was a PITA but separating the plugs was easy.
Ignore workshop manual about removing the undertray. Unbolt clutch actuator box from chassis leg (Front bolt goes through a hole and the rear, the box hooks over.) Try pulling lot upwards, but something is catching.
One shit to get at bolt to a bracket on the engine. Curse about not bringing a 10mm ratchet spanner with us.
Clutch actuator out. Everything done from the top.
It does fit in a BMW System case right-hand pannier.
Sitting next to a Reliant gearbox for scale.
Next installment will be the motor inspection. I'm waiting on the motor brushes to turn up first and the workbench needs clearing for disassembly.
Was asked by a workmate if my Jizz was and auto and if I knew anything about them... so he goes on to explain the problem he's having with his wife's one.
Turns out it's a 2010 i-Shit. In a moment of madness, Honda decided to junk a perfectly serviceable CVT and fit an AMT (aka robo-manual) and such is the shitness, it was a Europe only thing and lasted about a year or two before they came back with a CVT.
He had the codes read, but the bloke that read the codes suggested getting someone with a better scanner that could do the manufacturer's sort of thing. So I offer to "take a look" and dig out my knock-off Honda HIM interface and ancient Asus netbook, and test it on my car.
First problem is that the HDS software isn't talking to my car. So after messing around for ages after work on Sunday, I get it sorted and achieve a full scan of the yellow Jizz. It has a few stored codes which I'll deal with another day.
I pop round to scan this i-Shit on Monday on my break, this sheds some light on the issue. During this time, other garages / gearbox specialists contacted about fixing this car run a mile. Even the main stealer can't plug it in for a diagnostic for 3 weeks. Lazy workshy cunts the lot of them.
- Screenshot_2023-09-30-13-05-35-557_com.google.android.apps.docs-edit~2.jpg (146.96 KiB) Viewed 404 times
The main code of note is 163-3 (aka P0810) which points to a clutch actuator not working/not working properly.
So I express my preference for the car to be under cover for spannering and if it could be moved 30k so weather wouldn't be an issue. This involves another workmate and rapidly goes pear-shaped. Thursday night I'm told the lights are not working, and then Friday morning I'm told two of the wheel bearings are knackered.
As the weather was fine yesterday I said I'd come over on the bike. Haven't used it in over a month, so yeah, battery is flat. Stick that on for an hour and have something for lunch and load up the toolbox on the bike. Do my obligatory run down the road and get it bumped 2nd go and off I go.
Meet trailer workmate at the car on the street and set to work.
First job is battery out, then remove the battery tray. Next is unbolt the tiny reservoir attached to the front panel.
- IMG_20230929_144233_LBbTUfTN6A.jpeg (344.31 KiB) Viewed 404 times
Two bolts out holding the slave cylinder.
- IMG_20230929_144230_Ug87UqMJ5X.jpeg (394.87 KiB) Viewed 404 times
Air filter out to get at the wiring underneath it. Unplug some wiring. Trying to slide these connectors off from their hanging tabs was a PITA but separating the plugs was easy.
Ignore workshop manual about removing the undertray. Unbolt clutch actuator box from chassis leg (Front bolt goes through a hole and the rear, the box hooks over.) Try pulling lot upwards, but something is catching.
One shit to get at bolt to a bracket on the engine. Curse about not bringing a 10mm ratchet spanner with us.
- IMG_20230929_153931_oDxFmOXN45.jpeg (325.19 KiB) Viewed 404 times
Clutch actuator out. Everything done from the top.
- IMG_20230929_154741_tcH2VHpe5Z.jpeg (497.3 KiB) Viewed 404 times
- IMG_20230929_154819_go5ZfD6T09.jpeg (1.09 MiB) Viewed 404 times
It does fit in a BMW System case right-hand pannier.
- IMG_20230929_154952_0l3d2nVe2u.jpeg (725.3 KiB) Viewed 404 times
Sitting next to a Reliant gearbox for scale.
- IMG_20230929_182529_dqhWcKyG4S.jpeg (367.75 KiB) Viewed 404 times
Next installment will be the motor inspection. I'm waiting on the motor brushes to turn up first and the workbench needs clearing for disassembly.