1979 Trouble Spitfire

[SiC]

No fluid in the clutch master. That'll do it. 

Tbh probably the best scenario as I don't fancy pulling an engine to replace a clutch or dropping a sump to replace thrust washers. 

Topped up and a few pumps has got the clutch back. I think I'll be ordering a new clutch master/slave and maybe even the pipe for good luck.

[Eddie Honda]

I think I'll be ordering a new clutch master/slave and maybe even the pipe for good luck.

If LR ones are anything to go by, new ones are a crock of shit.

[SiC]

Looking under the boot of the master, it's all wet and suggests that it's leaking. 

The clevis hole on the pedal is heavily worn and huge too. I'll be taking the pedal out to weld up and re-drill this while I'm at it.

For those that aren't sure what they are looking at on the above, this is the brake master for comparison. Notice how the shaft is dry and clean. Likewise the hole for the pedal is round - not oval.

I think I'll chuck in both a master and slave. I don't really want to be doing this job again if I can help it. Both aren't crazy expensive - under £60 delivered. 

[SiC]

I think I'll be ordering a new clutch master/slave and maybe even the pipe for good luck.

If LR ones are anything to go by, new ones are a crock of shit.

This master definitely isn't original OE. Probably why it's failed.

Also I don't have much faith aftermarket seals will fit this master as often these aftermarket parts have different seals from OE.

[Eddie Honda]

I don't really want to be doing this job again if I can help it. Both aren't crazy expensive - under £60 delivered. 

You better jog it on quick then. Otherwise you will be.

[SiC]

I've been mostly tidying the garage today so I can get back on with my Midget and getting the Spitfire put back in under cover. However with the Spitfire out of action and nice weather finally upon us, I wanted to crack on getting it fixed as a priority.
First off was removing the transmission tunnel. While this gives good access to the gearbox, it's a right plava. Especially removing the stupid h frame thing in the middle.




After a lot of fighting, it was out. I know it's going to be even more swearing trying to get it back in and aligned.
The cover itself is then just held in with a bunch of screws.

At this point I realised that I didn't actually need to remove the cover as there is a bit of access to the slave underneath.

However it's tight for access and tbh given the state of the lines, fittings and everything else, the extra access makes the job a whole lot easier.
I sucked all the old fluid out. Given I put fresh in the master recently, this is pretty skany. Tbh it's more evidence that the rubber seals are breaking up. 

If you look closely under the slave, you can see the paint bubbling from brake fluid sitting on it. 

Removing the slave, it was clear that it was leaking too with the inside full of fluid on the wrong side. Also the boot is completely perished. 

Next problem was splitting the two halves. 

I chose violence (hammer and a vice) and the two split apart with a bit of a fight.
Also gave the gearbox fitting a quick whizz over with the wire wheel to remove the crud. 
Note the slave is marked Girling. So possibly original to the car.

I honestly think BMC based vehicles are much better engineered than Triumph. Stuff like this pivot pin isn't replaceable without splitting the engine/gearbox. It would have been handy to replace as there is a fair bit of wear and slack in it. 

With the leaking master, slave and worn pivot points, I'm surprised it even changed gear as well as it did. Also glad I am replacing the slave as well as the master given the leakage. 
Then pulled the master. 
Hard line was tricky to remove as the brake fitting head was mullered. A pair of mole grips got it freed off and then the brake spanner did the rest. I think I'll replace this hard line as not sure if it's going to be a pain trying to do up those knackered fittings.


Then unbolted the clutch master. Note the "REA" markings. I've only seen these on aftermarket masters, suggesting it's not original nor a high quality unit.

This really could do with giving a quick wire brush over and paint really. I'll also be removing the pedal so I can properly fix up the pivot point this side. 

Then called it a night for now. Hopefully by mid week I'll have received the replacement master and slave. In the meantime, I'll hopefully get some time to sort that pivot point and a bit of a clean+paint on the master area. 

Ideally I'd like it all back together and ready to go for next weekend.
Also need to find out how quickly I can get the Speedo fixed. Now would be a great time to finally sort it - not least that if I need to fiddle with the Speedo cable on the gearbox side, I currently have access to it. 
Biggest fight will be putting that h frame thing back in. 

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

I worked on a couple of these and a Herald back in the day and found them a pain in the arse.

They’re not easy to work on - a contemporary Ford is easy.

[PhilA]

Surprised how good the master cylinder was inside on my old man's Sprite, an original Girling item. Just needed a rubber seal set. Aftermarket slave from Moss, seemed good enough. Bled up (pain in the ass that was) and the clutch is as pleasant as any clutch can be.

Surprised how worn that clevis is though, the original pedal on the Sprite and it's still good. I think a slow fluid weep helped keep it lubricated over the years...

[SiC]

Well it's nearly a month later

In that time, when I've had time, I have been getting bits done when I've had time. 

The pedal clevis hole was severely elongated and probably would be long before it broke off entirely.



So I welded that up and redrilled.

Also stripped the pedal assembly apart and repainted. The centre pin for the pedal sits in a brass bush. However that pin was seized with it and took a fight to separate. Once apart, cleaned up with some fine sand paper and then lubed on assembly.


Once apart I stripped all the paint off and repainted with Lidls finest black enamel metal paint.




Also took the time to clean up and paint the scuttle area too. 







I didn't remove the brake master but tried to paint around it.


Certainly better than how it was.

The clutch pipe wasn't in too bad shape however the fittings were knackered from someone using the wrong type of spanner and rounding them. So just replaced the lot.


Bleeding was pretty straightforward with the tunnel off. Both access to the pedal and bleed nipple from the driver seat. Just needed to keep checking that I hadn't emptied the reservoir.


Then put it all back together again. Looks simple but took a good 2 hours of fighting with brackets and bolts.

 
That was the other day. Today I went for a drive. A quick test run had the throttle stick at max. Not ideal in a cul-de-sac and when dipping the clutch so I didn't end up through a neighbours front window, had it revving the tits off till it valve bounced and I could switch the engine off. Couldn't see how it was getting stuck but played around with the cable routing a bit to keep it straight. Hasn't done it since.

Revving a Triumph SC 1500 to the red line is not great at the best of times with it's wobbly crank and stuff. But racing one with no load is even worse. Oh well. It still runs okay!

This evening I went out for a little jolly as a prolonged test drive. Came back and went out again with Mrs SiC as she fancied a ride out. I just need to get her in the drivers seat and confidence in driving these old sheds. Maybe she might even enjoy it! (Probably won't...)

Then put it back to bed. Needs a good wash next to remove all the sand marks from the rain we had the other day. CBA to wash cars but needs must.

 
I still love this old donk. Literally in a month's time I will have owned it for 2 years (!)

Maybe it might be time soon for me to sell it on to try something else... I was quite tempted with a £10k frogeye that was local. That would be enough to make me want to sell it to change to something like that. 
 

[Scruffy Bodger]

Today I went for a drive. A quick test run had the throttle stick at max. Not ideal in a cul-de-sac and when dipping the clutch so I didn't end up through a neighbours front window, had it revving the tits off till it valve bounced and I could switch the engine off.
 

One, fair play for having it flat out in a cul-de-sac. Two, You got lucky there? A mate took my kit car for a spin years back and it stuck flat out so he clutched it but didn't get to the key in time and it knocked the crank out of the Pinto.